In India

In Berlin

2009-06-26T17:03:00.002+01:00

Right, ready for Berlin! Great city. It's so interesting and I'm investigating out loads of places. The differences between the architecture of East and West are so pronounced and being in Alexander Platz this afternoon(East) really bought home the struggle the people went through to get that wall down. They have a free display of their fight to freedom. the East Germans were a strict lot and they fought against the collapse of the system for a long time.

Went to a great museum this morning too, the history of the DDR (East Germany). It was all hands on and I saw their school books,felt the coffee beans(Coffee had to bought with western currencies so they doctored coffee with wheat and maize), school books and Pioneer Uniforms, clothes of the East, of which everything was synthetic and ugly, causing eye chaffing from how ugly everyone was and nose chaffing, because of the excessive sweating. Cotton, like coffee was only available on the western markets! Socialist conditioning started from potty training when all the kids in the kindergarten got put on the potties all in a line and no child was allowed to move until everyone had been. So bizarre. I saw photos of a building in Alexander Platz which was painted in the 70s with tonnes of asbestos paint (This paint had been banned for 5 years) , thank god now it has now been destroyed. Other great facts...East Germans spent most of their free time gardenning...they had the highest percentage of allotments in the world and spent lots of time naked. taking your clothes of in parks and beaches was anti establishment as well as pro because it completely broke down all class barriers!

Well enough facts, roads are very wide here and boulavardy, shops are massive with huge doors I have to really push hard to open (Germans must have strong muscles). Everyone is friendly and the city has a really relaxed vibe. Infact I think it's the most laid back city I have ever been to. People do all seem to have excessive hair, and still like to wear dead ugly scarves and shoes. (I noticed this fact over 20 years ago when I first visited Germany) Sorry Germans, get yourself some decent SHOES it's the 21st century. Also shops sell loads of synthetic flowers...yuck, yuck,yuck. Reminds me of my Aunty Eileen's flat. Urghhhh.Infact I don't think I've seen a living breathing flower since I arrived, even the gardens here are just full of trees and grass. (Beautiful trees and grass I hasten to add.)

I had my first German meal on the evening I arrived. Glad I got that over with...it won't be repeated with all of the great international cusine available. Had sushi for lunch..it was so good and filling. Haven't ever had such good sushi in UK, I think this is coz Yo Sushi and Marks and Spencers have a mafia like hold over sushi production back home!

Tomorrow is the biggest gay Pride festival in Europe. Probably will go and check it out after I have been to the Saturday Market. Shopping here is a bit dissapointing coz German style and mine don't really get and anything interesting is so bloody expensive. Even postcards cost more than a pound each!

My Hotel is great. really friendly coule who run it. This morning we sat and talked about Michael Jackson. Bloody hell, is he really dead...or do you think there is a possibility he might rise again?
Time running out here. I'm off to get a jumper from my room, Berlin is colder than I imagined and then off to sample more beer. Yes, it's good, very very good. Especially the weis beer and berliner beer and warstein beer. back on the s bahn to the east I think. Got some good grungier bars over there. The West is a bit staid and dusty with all of their C and A shops and they still have Woolies...can you believe it?
I would add some pictures but I don't have time and I want to get back out into the city. If you have read this to the end, congratulations, I feel like I have been waffling on for ages!

Rishikesh finally updated from 12 March.

2009-04-11T10:58:00.001+01:00

Prayer time in Haridwar. Most holy river Ganges at 6.30pm
The flowers that float in the ganges

Me in Delhi at the Qitb Minar

Me on Holi...it washed off OK but is still on my hands and I think my jeans and top are ruined!

Pre Holi Holi at Sanju's cousins house in Jaipur.

Sanju's cousins wife and kids. Not all hers!!!

How do they keep the elephants still to paint them?!

My favourite door in the Palace of Jaipur.

Freaky man on hobby horse in Elephant festival. Jaipur.

The Elephant parade

Me in the Cenotaphs of Jaipur. (Monuments to Maharajas who have died.)

Right update time! The 10th of March was the Elephant festival in Jaipur. It was OK but a bit too staged and touristy for me. All of the white people were sitting in a caged area and all the locals were being beaten off with sticks if they ventured anywhere near our shaded VIP section. Of course this did not put me in a relaxed frame of mind for enjoying the festivities. But even so I saw some great Elelphants and wonderful dancing. In the morning I went to the lovely Palace and the cenotaphs but Jaipur's traffic is the worst I have seen. THANK YOU SAnju for being such a great driver!

In the evening me and three other tourists and drivers went off for a meal at Sanju's cousins house. I had beer and chapatis and Dhal and Aloo Gobi and Raita and roti and rice. I was the only foreigner there who ate everything and all the drivers siad they have never met such a woman who can scoff so much of their great cuisine. I went upstairs to Thank the women who cooked and I even offered to wash up but of course they refused. Seeing how the family lived was an eye opener...it was the shabby quality of the building itself which affected me most. But the food was great and I still haven't been ill. Apart from that one morning!

The 11th was Holi. SO we left at 4am coz the main highways are too dangerous to travel on later in the day. We bombed it back to Delhi with four of the nephews in the back. It was a trecherous journey and I saw about 4 different road accidents. I couldn't sleep the whole way back.

I got dropped off in a LOUD hotel in the centre of Delhi and they charged me over 50 quid coz it was Holi, but hey, I got a room. Wandered out alone about 10am and soon hurried back because of the harrassment and then went back out again about 2pm. Got in a Tuk Tuk with a Christian from Tamil Nadu. he was most disparaging about Holi but he was interesting to talk to and he took me to some of the sights I missed on my first trip. Such as the big tower the Mughals built to do astronomy in the 9th century. I then wandered around near India gate and got hassled again and laughed at coz I was totally pink!! (Kids chased me with more paint but I was able to run away from them!)

In the evening I met back up with Sanju who had enjoyed his Holi drinking WHiskey and being with his family. He took me back to his house. NOw that was an experience. NEVER HAVE I seen squalor outside. A real slum dog situation. His room he rented with his Mum, Dad, neice, nephew and sister was clean and good but as the only working member of his family he had many people to support. (His brother died in a motor bike accident 2 years ago) They fed me and Mum and sister were a bit embarrassed to have a white person there but when I GOT BACK TO MY HOTEL THINGS TURNED A BIT nasty. I gave him a tip and he told me it wasn't enough. I was upset, he was angry, so to appease him I doubled his tip,(the atmosphere was pretty tense) Looking back at it now my initial tip was more than adequate, he was just after as much money from me as possible. He took advantage...but hey, he has got a lot of people to support and I can't blame him for trying his luck with me!! From his point of view I was a very rich woman...

Anyway forget that coz now I'm in beautiful Rishikesh in the foothills of the Himalayas and it's really peaceful and calm here. Right I'm back into the sun now and hopefully will come back later.

Last day

2009-03-13T14:38:00.000Z

My best cuppa in India.

View from the bridge

Liked the inscription and the view. Not so sure about the last statement though

Rama hugging a Shiva Linga...a penis. Weird concept!

Me in a 12 story temple which reminded me of something from Barry Island Butlins.

Lovely flowers...I will miss you

My last sunset in India from the ashram ghat. (Steps near the water)

Devottees with lit candles from the holy fire.

The female sanscrit students praying to the holy river.

Shiva statue in the light, behind is Mother Ganges.

An hour of prayer, singing chanting and clapping. The yellow clad guys are young sanscrit students.

Wow, what a great place to end my holiday. I can imagine when it is high season here in the summer all of the ashrams and holy places have a Butlins Holiday camp feel about them but at the moment things are pretty quiet and chilled out because there is still snow on the mountains and the temple and hole hangs out on the mountain side are not open yet, hence gurus and pilgrims are not using this town as a base.

I had a guide all day today and he was great. Vikram was an old guy and I think old is the way to go in India they are more trustworthy and not so money grabbing. He took me around 20 odd temples all on different themes and because I asked loads of questions he gave me a blow by blow account of the whole realm of god and goddesses and incarnations and vehicles and bodyguards. I'm telling you..this Hindu stuff is amazing and so ridiculous...but taken so seriously. Parvati sacrificed herself for some reason and 51 body parts of hers fell to Earth(well in this region of the Himalayas) so there are 51 temples of hers related to the relevant body part. In Shirikesh there is the tears temple, and the tongue temple. Further up the mountainside is a temple devoted to her nipple which fell to Earth. So cool!!!

This afternoon I chilled at the hotel. It's lovely here and the food is the best yet. I have totally gone to town today because it's my last day. Even the tea tastes better here and I took a photo of my favourite tasting cuppa this morning!!

Met Vikram again at 5pm and he took me off to the hour long service by the waters edge. Without him I would never have found the place. He was worth his weight in gold and very helpful. We went to the oldest temple here first...from the 5th centuryAD. Was good to see it because everything here seems really new.

The prayer time was great and had a kinda evangelical feeling about it...but more fun. Lots of clapping and swaying and singing. My god the music is loud but it really was emotional seeing loads of different people there and the beautiful river ganges flowing by. At sunset it goes a light blue colour and roars by. Also there are loads of fish in it...so itcan't be that polluted here.

gonna go back to hotel soon and get packed and showered ready for my 4am departure tomorrow morning. I've had to buy another bag to check in. I really hope I don't have to pay more and that the man in London was right about the 40 kilo weight allowance!

I've totally enjoyed this trip...I've been ripped off and hassled but the service and adventures that I have had have been unbelievable and i have done and seen soooooooo much. Can't believe I have gone from desert to mountain in one week!!

I'm ready to leave though...3 weeks alone is more than enough and looking forward to getting back to my house and seeing friends and family. Right that's it. Namaste.

Jaipur

2009-03-09T14:38:00.000Z

More holy rats, drinking holy milk this time!
at the Amber Fort, Jaipur. The Mother on the right was very forceful and wanted her children to be photographed with a 'white person'.
Beautiful silver inlay. Was outstanding.
My favourite trees of India. I made Sanju stop on the highway and go back for this photo! I love it. Am going to miss these trees.
designs of the fort in Bikener...wish I could have had longer there.
My room tonight. I want to nick the bedspread.
Even has one of these but it doesn't work.
Water palace of Jaipur
Indians are masters of colour and design. This is over 700 years old in the Amber Fort.
Amber Fort

Well here I am back in the golden triangle; the Pink City of Rajasthan. I am staying in another palace tonight and I hope to upload some photos of my Maharaja Palace room. Last night I had a very hot curry and it was so delicious but I was up at 5am having pay back. Oh well, at least I feel fine now!

Long drive today, but I'm getting into Hindi music now and my book is great. Lots of camels on the road, they can carry so much and seem so placid. I want one. The roads here are fantastic but everyone drives like a complete nutter.

Megan, thank you for your comment. the rats were fine because they are not real rats but reincarnations (ask your Dad what that means!) as for the camel I was lucky coz he was quite small but my legs do ache today not only because of the camel, but also because of walking up sand dunes early in the morning to see the sunrise. Now that was tough because I kept sinking and slipping.

Arrived in Jaipur about 3pm and had a whistle stop tour because everything closes at 5.30. Tomorrow is the elephant festival. Looking forward to it. Still no accommodation in Delhi but Sanju says he will help me find something...hope so.

Warning Mum...next part not suitable for Megan or any other reading nephew/neice I might have! (or Dad, come to that!)
Sanju took me to a jewellery shop this evening and the guy was mad as a hat. He told me he'd read my palm to tell me which gem stone would suit me best. (It was blue saphire by the way)
he then told me about my life, I'm a home owner, got a brother and a sister and that I like foreign men (All things Sanju could have quite easily told him...yes, I'm so cynical.) But then he told me that I liked group sex. I said, what? He said yes, it's here on your palm..you love group sex. I said oh my god, no one has ever said that when reading my palm. (or at any other time!) He said it's here on your palm...all readers know it, they just haven't told you about it. Bloody hell. You learn so many new things about yourself when you travel around India!!!! I bought a cheap ring of him just to remember him and his 'knowledgable insights'.

Right time for dinner. Internet is good here and for the first time I have learnt how to turn my photos. I hope you enjoy looking at them without cricking your neck!

Bikener

2009-03-08T13:47:00.001Z

Holy rats!!! can you believe I was there!! I'm so proud of myself!!! Look at the colony in the distance.
Holy rats drinking holy water
Holy sleeping rats
Fort at Bikener. My favourite fort so far!!

the Thar desert...about 30 miles from Pakistan.
Dishpak the guide and Bishken the camel.
At the watering hole.

ME!!!
Well, I'm back in a city now. What an adventurous few days. Drove from Jodhpur to Jaiselmer and went round the fort...which is still inhabited and looks amazing and then in a jeep out to the desert and ended up sleeping out under the stars in the desert after a four hour ride on a camel! Unfortunatly the sunset was hazy but sunrise was good. I didn't sleep alone had an old English couple with me so that was a bit of security! but a What an adventure. I had a small camel so it wasn't too uncomfortable at all! In fact I quite liked it!!!

Then today I did the most crazy thing in the WORLD FOR ME. I went to the only Rat Temple in India. there are 100000000s of them and I thought if anything could cure me of a phobia that would and to be honest it wasn't too bad. Just kinda strange and they were kinda cute..but GOD it was weird being around so many rats...but I didn't pass out or scream and just thought of them as what they are: holy reincarnations of the local Royal Family!!!

I'm hungry, tired and been chatting on Skype and just realised I don't have any accommodation sorted out for when I am back in Delhi...which could be a problem bcause it is Holi. Big festival. Whoops...oh well. Hopefully I'll sort something tomorrow. Night. Off for some well deserved FOOD

Jodphur

2009-03-05T16:22:00.000Z

My bedroom tonight! It's massive and this is only a third of the size!
Hindu temple in Ranakpur
Inside the fort of Jodphur
On my mountain trip yesterday evening
the beautiful view. There are crocodiles on the nearest island but the are hard to see.
Outside the Jain temple in Ranakpur
carvings inside the temple
In a Hindu temple up another mountain...three hundred 90 steps up. This guy was really strange and way too fat for a priest!
Miniture Artists at work in a studio in Udaipur
me in the royal palce in Udaipur
The beautiful peacock of love.
Ceiling in the royal palace. Loved it!
Typical rajastani man. well actually he isn't...this is the curliest I have seen!

Bloody hell i am in Paradise. Never have I stayed in such a lovely room as i will be tonight. It's like a palace. Hopefully I will be able to upload some photos becauseIhave found a better internet cafe and I really want to write down what I have done.

Yesterday i was staying out in the countryside and I went for a walk up a mountain to watch the sunset. It was beautiful and reminded me of New Zealand. It was in a small place called Ranakpur and it had one of the most beautiful Jain temples I have ever seen. It was so exquisite and i was there for ages.

Today I have arrived in Jodhpur and went to yet another royal palace (which since 1973 has been a hotel) this was Ok but the fort was amazing. I had an audio guide and learnt all about the Rajput dynasty of Marwar...bloody loaded they were and always fighting someone...apart from the British!!

Then to another peaceful temple and finally into Jodphur. The hotel is stunning and I have just eaten on the terrace over looking the city and earlier I bought loads of spices, coz this city is famous for them. I have bought so much I don't know how I am going to carry it all home!! Oh well. It's all inthe boot of the car at the moment. I'm going for a typical Jodphur breakfast tomorrow of deep fried chillis...sounds interesting!! Now Sanju knows I love spicy food he keeps on wanting to test how spicy I can go. I think a deep fried chilli breakfast may be my limit!!
Right I'm off to my palace now and gonna sleep like a Princess!!! Night

udaipur

2009-03-03T14:41:00.000Z

wall in the village from yesterday

my lovely room in udaipur

what about that for a see-saw!! It was such an incline.
can't be bothered to upload any pictrues from today on this crap machine. it will take hours

very tired this evening. have had busy day around the city. Went to miniture shop and also to a tailor and had a skirt and two pairs of trousers made. They are lovely. I picked everything up at 7pm. BEEN AROUND THE Lake on a boat. up a mountain (600 steps) TO a temple, beeen inside the royal palace for about 2 hours and that was amazing. THE KING had such colourful taste...some of the rooms resemble 80s discos. I can't believe they are over 400 years old. THE building was amazing and i paid for a guide. he was a good guide and afterwards he took me to this amazing restaurant and i had aubergine curry with chapatis. the best indian food here so far. he wante d me to go out this evening and drink whiskey with him..."and maybe i can show you my room?"..i politely refused and said thanks for recommending such a good restaurant.

Went to the temple at 6.30 and saw all the local people praying and then back to shop to pick up purchases...sanju must have got a good commision because he was off to buy whiskey for his driver friends at his hotel and to celebrate indias cricket win over new zealand. men have have had small radios stuck to their ears all day so they could follow the game.

Udaipur

2009-03-02T17:20:00.000Z

sanju(proud barcelona fan) AND THE CAR

the princess gardens...so beautiful and well kept.

the pink blossom reminds me of the bright colours of new zealand

my god, what a fantastic day and what a fantastic place. Its amazing but the internet is rubbish and i have the tea boy over my shouLDER askiNG me QUESTIONS and looking at my mobile phone....'how much madam?' ' can i check functions? thank god my phone isn't top of the range that would send them all into fits of hysteria.

JUST WANT to post some photos and go to bed i have been up since 6am. saw sunrise with some indian toursits from mumbai. read book till 10. sanju and i left at 11 and it was a beautiful ride here and we stopped to look at temples and had lunch in a great garden.

the trees in rajastan are amazing as are all the flowering bushes. its just so bright with the flowers the wonderful saris and the bright turbans. I'm in heaven.

We arrived about 5pm in UDAIPUR AND went straight to one of the lakes. I then went to the princess of the palaces garden. THis was probably the most beautiful garden i have ver seen in india. I hope i can post some pictures. WE THEN went to a typical rajastani village>>recreated by the government but still well done and well preserved

. sanju listened to a hindi guide with a group and then translated into english for me> so i learnt alot> this computer is too crap for picturestoo crap for blogging> i"ll
hav to do more in anther place>

i bought a miniture picture today in the updaipur school of art> it is tiny and exquisite and cost forty five pounds> i"m getting it framed> i was talking to the artist about the history of miniture painting in istanbul, ISFAHAN and udaipur. coz of living in isatnbul i knew alot and i also saw a big mahabarata miniture painting exhibition in the britisih library last year. it was great and i love the picture i bougght. yeah, it's not cheap...but sod it I"M ON HOLIDAY>

I"M tired that is why my typing is so shite..not just the computer.

MY HOTEL IS amazing. full of character. I'm just so happy that i decided to do this tour and that i got such a good guide. one of my better decisions. not being on a smelly bus or train makes this a completely different type of holiday and as you can see the car is pretty new!

this computer driving me crazy...night night

Pushkar

2009-03-01T14:21:00.000Z

sunset this evening

A mad cow who was next to me during the sunset.
I think this should be brass, but they were brash as well.

My young guide from yesterday

Still here and all good. Today has been a lazy today but still fun. Reading on my veranda till about 3pm and then once the heat and gone a bit I ventured back into town. I firstly went into a notebook store and fell madly in love with loads of booksand photo albums. The guy in there was really great and he could see my crazy passion for his books so he took me to his work station to show me how he made them. It was really interesting to see how they were binded and the colour and design stamps.WELL as you can guess I have bought loads! Why am I so in love with notebooks? Strange, ehh?

I thenwent into a silver shop and looked at rings and necklaces. The owner was asleep behind the counter and I was browsing for a good 10 minutes before he woke up. I could have nicked no end of stuff. Of course I bought a lovely necklace and I didn't haggle with him too much becuse I jsut knew he was giving me a good price. We got chatting about Indian politics and life in Pushkar...hindu and Islamic fundamentalism and bollywood movies...(plus that old chestnut of... can I look at your mobile phone and how much were your sunglasses?) His mate wandered in. He was a Brahmin priest and did ceremonies at the lake. He was pretty cool and he told me about his typical day of taking tourists from all over India down to the lake. His mate, the jewellery seller can't be a priest because he isn't of the right caste.

Then I wndered off into a clothes shop and found a lovely top and of course I bought that too. Again another long chat and tea followed. So after more than 3 hours I hadn't really walked very far in Pushkar at all!

Watched the sunset. Not may people but that cow came over and joined me and then wandered off as soon as the sun had set. the status of the cow in India is just totally bizarre. Sanju says it's because Krishna lives in every cow, so they are all gods.

No time to write more. I am off for pizza. Good place up the road and I am a bit sick of holy indian dhal, it s a bit bland. I forget to tell them I like it spicy.

Pushkar

2009-02-28T15:14:00.000Z

Great spelling!

Me in Pushkar

Wedding celebrations

Love the colours.

The tourist office man. Shit, forgot to turn them.

Kali having a domestic with Krishna. She has killed all his body guards and has all the heads around her. What a woman!

People doing pujas and ritual bathing

Typical Rajastani guy about his saturday business

What a SUPERB day. What a fantastic place. I want to eat dinner and the restaurant closes in half an hour so I will focus on uploading some photos first. I have done Puja (holy praying with Guru near the lake) this involved flowers and herbs and spices on a plate. Telling him the names of people you want to pray for and then reciting a mantra and then they bless you with holy water from the lake and you throw all the crushed flowers behine you and you put your sum of money on top of a coconut and it's taken to the charity box. Then the guru puts a red mark on your forehead and ties string round your wrist. (Right wrist if you are single and left wrist if you are married)

This lake is one of the holiest in India for Hindus and it has the only Brahma temple in the whole of the world. It is full of pilgrims from all over India and it's really chilled out. There is no hard sell and everybody just kinda chills out together.

I had a guide this morning. A 17 year old student who showed me around the town. It's small. I'm glad i did because doing the puja was quite complicated. I had to go to the Brahma temple first and collect my flowers there but you pay no money and then walk down to the lake. Where you collect your tray of herbs and spices and coconut and then wit for a guru to approach you and take you down the steps of the ghat (like a platform near thelake).

All must sound well hippy and weird and as you all know I AM NOT A HIPPY! But could get into living here. Thank you Sanju for saying I should be here for three days. Looking forwrd to chilling out again tomorrow but decided not to go swimming in the pool. Think I might catch some kind of skin disease or internal rotting...it doesn't look too clean!!

After I said by to my guide I went to a cafe and chatted to a french woman and a girl from Birmingham. Had great food there and then found the tourist information centre hidden away and stayed with the guy in there for about half an hour. He was funny, he wanted to know how much my sunglasses cost and the functions on my mobile and was helpful with the maps and told me that if I wanted a healthy baby I had to go and pray at a certain temple. I had to sign my name in a big book and he put a star next to my name so that he would remember me! (I have to go back to Pushkar once I have had my super healthy baby to show him)

Pushkar Rajhastan

2009-02-27T15:22:00.000Z

Well, I'm in the desert and arrived late and it's pitch dark outside my hotel so I don't think it's a good idea to go exploring a new place in such circumstances. This city is very holy and supposedly has a big lake, with lots of marble temples around it and many Hindus come here to make wishes and float out flowers. I have just eaten dinner on the rooftop terrace and got over run by a group of OAP Indians probably up here to make their final wishes!

Staying here for three nights...so I think I will get to know the place well and the hotel is fantastic, Sanju has arranged a garden view for me with a terrace over the flowers. Plus there is a swimming pool! (But it look sa bit cold) The evenings are cold here.

Slept so well last night and this morning I looked around the Red Fort at Agra for an hour or so. It was fantastic but Islamic designs, Persian Arches and flowered inlay of precious stones all begin to get a bit 'the same'after a while.

Well it took about 8 hours to get here. But it was fun. Me and Sanju get on fine. I sit in the back and we chat and he's happy that I let him listen to his Hindi music (which is pretty good really) and then I read and then I ask him loads of questions about life in India.

We saw some interesting sites on the roads, Naked Jain pilgrims who have probaby walked starkers for 100s of miles to get to this particular temple in Rajhastan. On mass, Middle aged ,male nudism is pretty grim to behold in any format!! Believe me!

We saw loads of wedding parties, involving lots of dancing, decorated cars .................

Oh my GOD The OAPs have just decended on this tiny internet room asking me what I am doing. "Are you programing" Where are you from? What is a blog? Can I read it? So funny but so NOSEY> I didn't want them to read about the naked Jains!!! (One of them was from America!)

Right I haven't got my cable today, so no photos of the Red Fort.

Oh, I saw some funny signs today in Agra.

ANUS SCHOOL OF ENGLISH. ( I hope the owner is called Anu!)

and LEARN FLUENT ENGLISH IN 3 WEEKS. Wow, the Indian English teachers must be really good!

Right I'm off to my terrace to relax with a book and lime juice. No beer allowed in this holy city!

Night

Agra

2009-02-26T14:15:00.000Z

Get an idea of its size!!

Inlay on the walls of the Taj. All semi precious stones.

Yes, it's me.

Inlay in the mosque

So cheesy!

Right, so much to write and so little time and I am wired. I HAVE SEEN the TAJ MAHAL and it was worth it. It truely is the most amazing building I have ever seen and even the people are unnoticable against it's beauty and anyway the garden layout and design around is so well done and I'm in awe. Especially at it's size and intracacies of the inlays on the walls. All completed from semi precious stones. It took 20 000 men working around the clock for 22 years to build it.

Right a quick summary of today.

I was dreading this morning incase Sanju didn't turn up. Well he did, and thanks Orlando for waking up at 3.30 am to call to see if I was OK. You are GREAT!!

We started out tour with a photo of me next to a huge SHiva built next to the chocking highway. We then went to a new temple which was great it was all decked out in red and green lights and looked like a nightclub from the 80s and even the idols were projections froma flatscreen TV. Really funky. I'm having trouble with uploading pictures so I don;t think I'll be able to show you them.

I then had a quick walk around another fort, Sikindra I think it was called and then had to hurry on to the Taj after a big lunch because no phones, food or drink apart from water allowed in. Sanju, told me an interesting fact about Agra, it has the greatest amount of crazy pople of any city in India and hence has the best mental hospital in the country.

Probably becauseof all the traffic accidents.Good inside information!!

Arrived inisde the Taj at 3pm and was one of the last to leave at 8pm when the sun had set. It was fantastic and all the mad worries of yesterday literally vanished..but I still have to phone up the co-op to make sure that the guys didn't compromise the card.

I met this student called Raj and he offered to be my guide for a cut price and he was excellent without him I would have missed so much which isn't written in my guide book. There are so many magic numbers in the Taj and its completely symetrical apart from Mumtaz's tomb is different from Shah Jahan's and the central point running through the taj goes through Mumtaz's tomb.

I stayed, watched sunset and just chilled out and met Sanju and he drove me here. The hotel is well swanky, far far better than anything I would normally pay for. SO all in all I think this tour has been a great idea. Because all you get on the streets is hassle hassle hassle. The taj was a sanctury. He met some mates and all 5 of us drove up to my hotel and had a laugh. They all say I look younger than 37 and I laughed and offered them all 10 rupees for the compliment.

Anyway about to order dinner and I am going to have my first beer on my holiday. Yes, three days without beer!

Delhi day three

2009-02-25T13:44:00.000Z

Beautiful design in Hanumans' Tomb

Jama Masjid Mosque

Hanuman's Tomb

The Bahai Temple

The Jama Masjid

At Hanuman's tomb. My favourite place!

Right, I have to be honest. Today has been tough and I haven't been feeling too good. Delhi is a HARD city on your own and I feel that everyone is out to fleece me. THe only decent guy I have met today is the driver who bought me to what seems to be the only internet cafe in town...He had to find about 5 people to ask and didn't demand a tip. I feel out of my depth and I just hope that my tour is a success. The more I think about it the more panicky I get. I just have to trust them and if it works it will be worth it and if I have been conned then I will just have to move on and forget about it!

Sanju is coming to pick me up from my hotel at 8am tomorrow morning and we are driving to the Taj Mahal stopping at two Sikh temples on the way. Driving we will be able to include these in the itinery. They said that three days at the Taj is too many and this on retrospect is true and the hotel they showed me in Agra looks great so I'm going to have two days there and then move off around Rajhastan staying one or two nights in different places. Lakes, Forts, Palaces, Bird Sanctury, desert. ..i know that i wouldn't have been able to organise this myself so let's hope its a success. Right I won't go on about it any more. GOnna just post some photos from yesterday.

Today I just hung out in myarea and got stared at alot and read my book in the park.

Delhi day 2

2009-02-24T13:06:00.000Z

Right. Slept well. I love Asian beds with just a cotton sheet and a hard mattress! But I had to get the blanket out last night. Today i was picked up by the tour guide at 8.30am. He looked out of it and the car was shite.No mirrors. So I arrived at the agency in a state and demanded my money back. They said today was a holiday and IT ISN"T and they sent a pile of crap to my door. Anyway me and Latif had a shouting match and in the end he got a government of India guy in with his badge to calm me down and another guide who had a recommendation book with him and they showed me his driving licence. They also called an American and an Australian tourist who are currently on tours with this company. The Gov. India guide said to me that yeah, I had paid commision but that it was an above board agency and to see everything by train in Rajastan is impossible. This way I had everything at my beck and call. They also threw in this free day tour of Delhi, an extra night in Jaipur (Coz it's Holi festival on the 11th and no one can travel because your car will be trashed with paint) . It's just tough on my own to know if I have done the right thing. I have to trust the guy if I'm alone in the car with him.
Well today with Sanju was fine. He's , the car was perfect and he was a good driver and he does frequent tours around Rajasthan.
Well, today he took me to
The Jama Masjid (Friday Mosque): Beautiful inside, but a rotting foul cesspit of humanity at the entrance.
The Red Fort: Again beautiful Mughal architecture.
India Gate: A gate similar to the one in Mumbai but built to commemorate the Indian dead in all their wars they have helped us out in.
Ghandi's garden and memorial: Very peaceful and quiet. Love ly gardens.
Hanuman's Tomb: A prequel to the Taj Mahal and I REALLY LOVED it. Hardly anyone there either I don't think there are many tourists in India at the moment!
The Baha'i temple (Lotus temple): This was outstanding. There are 7 Baha'i temples like this in the world and the one in India looks like the SYdney opera house. It's not so beautiful but the feeling inside was incredible. It almost made me cry. I can't explain why. There was nothing on the walls and just pots of wonderful flowers everywhere. Unfortunatly again, no photos were allowed.I want to learn more about this religion. I don't think it even started until 1893. Weird, but a great place!
Government buildings: The British legacy and to be honest ugly and clumpy architecture. The buildings we built back home are much better. The roads around government reminded me of Washington (well, what I have seen on TV!)
Then he bought me back to the agency after about 10 hours of driving around the city. I paid up the difference after my deposit. I just hope and pray the accommodation is good. Let's wait and see!

2009-02-23T15:05:00.000Z

Well, here I am. I have made it!! I'm staying in a little house with loads of character in a district about 3miles from the centre.

Very old fashioned but spotlessly clean and with hot water and a bucket shower!

This evening I went wandering around the area looking for an internet cafe...it's dark and pretty hectic but had a FABULOUS jalfrezi along the way. Well the only place I found wouldn't let me in coz I was an 'outsider'. That's great, outrageous racism on my first day! But back at house now and one of the guests has lent me his laptop whilst he goes for dinner. So might have to be quick. Only got wi fi reception under the shrine. Got a picture of this weird shrine earlier. I'll try and upload it later.

Well flight was great. Again just ate and drank loads and chatted to the girl next to me who was off trecking in nepal. Movies kept me up all night and I ddin't get a wink of sleep. The arrivals hall here is just so much more relaxed than Mumbai.(Thank god coz I was knackered!) For a start it is far more civilised here. the poverty isn't in your face and people generally ignore you.

My taxi driver got me here in one piece. Yes, they do drive like absolute NUTTERS and then I decided to get the metro into the centre. I got off at the central square and it was such a strange experience like a kinda very very very run down, Indianafied Cheltenham that had been left to rot for about 200 years.

Because today is Monday everything is closed but my god I got hassled wandering around. Yes, I look white, tired and obviously in a daze but jesus, it was full on. Anyway I ended up in a travel agency and got chatting with this guy and to cut a long story short I have taken a HUGE gamble and bought a 14 day tour around Rajastan. Maybe I will live to regret doing this but I really want to have some of the stress taken out of this trip and they will organise all my accomodation, give me a car anda driver everyday and take me off the beaten track at my desire. We will see. This also includes 2 days at the elephant festival in Jaipur and one night sleeping in the desert with a camel. ...ehh?!

Only building i visited today was the Massive Hindu temple which Gandhi prayed at. I arrived about 3pm and stayed till about 5pm. It was full of families and the park was packed.

Sorry, forgot to turn this! it's steps leading down to a fair ride!

No, it's not a nazi temple.

Tomorrow is a holiday so everyone was really chilled out. It was pretty modern and relaxed in the temple but to be honest I feel that the area I'm staying is a hot bed of Hindu fundementalism., but knowing me I might be imagining this!

Right lets try and post some photos before the guy comes back. I'm whacked too. I need some sleeeeep. Oh, by the way the metro is great. Really slick and clean but photos are banned and there is many an armed guard to enforce this law. Also security is so tight. You have to be frisked and walk through a beepy thing and have your bag checked whenever you enter a station. I think after a few days this would get pretty tiresome. The same scenario at the Temple. No photos and strong security. India is being very careful!

gonna publish...think connection is faulty. but maybe it'll work. Fingers crossed
Night. Internet cafes are thin on the ground here. Only by luck did I manage this today. God knows about tomorrow. Night

Back home

2008-03-29T14:48:00.000Z

Shiva and Parvati. She was sooooo curvaceous. The ancients were into hips and boobs.

A many armed incarnation of Shiva.

Well, I'm back in one piece and it's great to be in my little house. Just going through my photos this afternoon. Unfortunately in the last internet cafe where I put on the Elephanta photos a man 'helped' me. Which has resulted in him removing all my last Bombay pictures from my camera. Thank you very much helpful man. At the moment I'm looking at Google pictures to see if I can find the carvings of Parvati and Shiva, which I'd like to add. Yes, more carvings! Plus I want to add some pictures from the backwaters. Maybe I can find something on line. Well, I'm going to miss this blogging lark. It's great coming home and not having to retell stories to people. Everybody knows about my holiday...really surreal. Catherine says I should continue with Bardeninbicester. But sorry it just doesn't have a ring to it. And hey, what the hell would I write? For a start I'd probably piss my nearest and dearest off.

Flight back was fine apart from circling around Heathrow for about 1 hour. No one to pick me up. So had to hang around Gloucester Green waiting for the Bicester bus. Jesus, it was freezing. Had to open my bag and take out a couple of scarves. But good to be back. Especially the joy of cleaning my teeth with TAP water. Yeah.

Bloody hell my photos upload in seconds on my computer. Wow, I can add loads more and bore you all even more stupid!! I got a great angle on Parvati with her amazing shape. Thank you so much 'helpful' man.

My bed was so comfortable last night I slept so well. Soft pillows and duvets are the amber nectar. I've got my Indian perfume on so I can be transported back in an instant. really important because it's bloody foul weather here.

Last Morning

2008-03-28T03:03:00.000Z

Right it's 8.45 and I've just checked my emails to see if Air India have delayed the flight. It all looks on time. Lets hope it all goes smoothly. Last night I was sooooooo tired I just had to sleep and sleep. Everything finally just caught up with me, so didn't really get a final night feeling of Bombay. But hey, at least I feel good today. yesterday I just left my guide book at home and went wandering round the city getting completely lost. It's funny asking locals for directions because they all kinda send you the same way but with wild flapping arm gestures. Straight on could mean anything so I have to calm them down and ask 'straight on meaning which direction?'. I just got lost in a book shop yesterday. What a funny place I went to. The Strand Bookshop is something out of the 1940s. Books randomly piled everywhere and little old hobbit like men to help you search for anything you want. Saw loads of interesting stuff but I know my bag is almost up to critical mass so I had to control myself. Ended up in Fabindia again,My favourite clothes and house shop. Just had to buy a bright yellow bedspread and also the maddest skirt. It's a Ghurka skirt, really wide and swingy and right down to the floor. I know I'll look a bit eccentric wandering around Bicester in it but I don't care. I fell madly in love with it and would have bought 2 if I'd liked the other patterns.
Colaba, my end of town was absolutely packed when I got back late afternoon. It was too much for me so I dived into a pretty grim ex pat bar for some beers. Finally drunk the old favourite COBRA beer! Found it at last. It's brewed in the UK and imported here and only for sale in Maharastra province. Beer here is tightly controlled and heavily, heavily taxed. Anyway because I'm a lightweight now the beer zonked me out (Along with the heat and the hours of walking round the city). Right time to go. Taxi is coming soon, coz it's rush hour they say it will take over 2 hours to get to the airport. Great. Must go. I'm going to add some more crap when I get back home.

Bombay

2008-03-26T16:09:00.000Z

Three headed shiva. The destroyer, ugly face on left, calm face in the middle and female face on the right. Very dark but at last the woman puts the carving in perspective

The faces on these sculptures are still really beautiful despite the Portugese using them for target practice in the early 17th century.

Met and seen some interesting people today along with some amazing carved lumps of rock. Got up late and watched English IndianTV this morning. A kind of 2 hairy bikers cookery programme around India, but they don't cook they just go into restaurants and discuss the food and then this well weird fat old woman who looked really scary making cocktails and necking them and getting all kinda horny and excitable about them. It was revolting and I was intrigued by how gross it was. This was about 10am and in my opinion one of the most affective government health warnings I've ever seen.

Finally gave my trousers to this really great tailor, he told me I had been truely duped and there wasn't much hope for them. He even showed me how the stitching was already coming apart. Oh well, live and learn.

Then I got on the boat to Elephanta Island. Bombay harbour is a tad ugly, not exactly a stunning vista but Elephanta was amazing. It's an ancient retreat for worshippers of Shiva and in the 6th century they carved out these massive gods from just single pieces of rock. The cave was out of this world and the three headed shiva was MASSIVE! In my guide book it is written that this particular site is better than the 2nd most popular site in India. (I think this is their way of having a stab at the Taj Mahal.)

Well, stayed in the caves for ages looking at all the gods and trying to remember who was who. I love it that Ganesh, the god with the elephant head, rides around on a mouse. No luck with the photos today this computer is crap. Same problem as when I arrived.

Then I met this guy from Kyrgistan, think that's how you spell it. He was really strange and he kept telling me he wasn't a traveller but a world knowledge collector. (What? a bully bullshitter more like). Anyway, he'd come to India without a visa from Tibet, There was no border crossing where he crossed over. He'd left tibet coz of the political trouble and now is in deep shit here because he can't leave without a visa and can't stay in any hotels because they all want your visa number. He was going to Elephanta Island to see if he could stow away out of India on a boat to the middle East. if he's caught he'll go to jail. Bloody mad situation.

after I'd had my fill of rocks and the hindu gods I went for a Foster's in the bar and saw a group of toursits who reminded me of Italians, they were all laughing and being loud and were all amazingly well dressed. Got chatting to them and found out they were all Zoroastrians from Iran. I've finally met a group of people from the most amazing religion ever invented! We had a chat and they liked it that I knew a bit about their faith but unfortunately their ENglish wasn't too good. I was so excited I forgot to ask if I could take a photo of them.

Then on the 'deluxe' boat home I paid the extra 10 Rs to go on the top deck. Nobody was up there apart from this really awful Indian guy (A kinda Indian Maxwell look alike, the Newspaper geezer who died on his boat) and this really young attractive girl. He just kept putting her into poses and taking photos and she would do anything he wanted and he kept pawing her. I felt quite naseous and it wasn't because of sea sickness. But yet I stayed because I wanted to feel the sun on my face. Really horrible situation to witness though. Maybe he was 'helping' her get a portfolio together for Bollywood.

Tonight I went the full hog and ate at the best 5 star restaurant in Bombay. Walked there and the streets were just full of people and kids and cows and crap on the pavements and blatent poverty and as soon as you entered the Taj it was like another world. I met a class of Indians whoI just haven't met before. They just stay cacooned in their massive cars, houses and luxury hotels,live the high life and never have to witness the day to day living of the majority in the city. It was an education and the hotel was amazing..I spose I'm impressed because I haven't been into that many 5 star hotels.(Well, not since I lived in Thailand. ) Anyway the food was expensive and pretty good but I've eaten better stuff. Especially in that working man's cafe in Bangalore!!

Back in Bombay

2008-03-25T15:52:00.000Z

Outside the Jain temple in Bombay. I think I've caught the perfect posture of Indian women.

Just 1 rupee for a local call with these phones!

An illegal shot taken in a Jain temple of the black buddha. There was no one to see me take it so I quickly snapped away. Ive probably buggered up my karma.

Well it's good to be back. There is something about this place which just makes me feel so happy. It also makes me shop for loads of junk from street markets. Sorry not junk, what am I writing, it's all really tasteful and top quality merchandise. ( mostly presents for you lot. Ha hA!)
Had breakfast on the top of the cliff and said goodbye to the sea. Went for a short walk but didn't have any suncream on and within minutes I could feel my skin frying. Got a white Government of India taxi to Thiruvananthapuram airport. Bet none of you can pronounce that city. The taxi driver stopped in Varkala at a flower shop and run out for about 10 minutes and came back with streams and streams of jasmine and lillys. I thought they were for me but he piled the front seat up with them and said they were all for his wife because it was her birthday today. the smell for that hour in the taxi was amazing. He did give me a small thread of jasmine when I got out the taxi.
The flight back here was probably one of the easiest and most customer service led flights I've ever been on. When I come back to India I'm going to fly back here from the UK with Jet. For two hours I sat and watched the South West coast of India below me. It was really beautiful. Plus the flight guide was crammed full of recipes and information on the 27 UNESCO sites in India. I've seen four I think. Only 23 go!
Survived the mad taxi drive back down to the same hotel as before. So I was able to direct the driver here. Had all the kids and beggars waving things at me and shoving bits of their bodies through the window. Gave a limbless man 20 Rs and some coins just to see the logistics of how you pass over something to an armless man. He just waggled his head at his top pocket in his shirt. He had it all sorted out!
Trying to put some of my old Bombay pictures on here. But again the computers are just so slow.
My room is better than the original room I had. Bigger and more modern, I think they like it that I've come back. Rushed out of the hotel as quickly as possible, signing in to any place here takes ages because they have these big ledgers they have to fill in, and I just about caught the sunset. Found an arabic area and they were having big processions with horses and gold and silver carts and big bands. It was mental just walking into that and yes, no glasses spray, so no pictures! Sat down with some of the Arabs and drank sherbet. Bloody hell, only three days left to drink as much lemon sherbet as possible. Then went on my shopping binge, the market area seems much quieter. I really feel like it's the end of the season. Perfect for me though! Then it was time for more food, yeah...yippee. this time Rogan Josh with saffron rice. It was so rich and filling and I also had a really creamy mango lassi, I think I might vomit from over indulgence. (Sorry, that's grim!)
Then back to do more shopping and finally back here to my first ever internet cafe I used in India. It's the full circle. I can't believe I have travelled right down to the bottom of India and have now got back again in one piece! It's all (touch wood), been such fun, and so interesting and unfortunately it'll all be over soon. But hey, I'm actually looking forward to getting home too. I miss all my friends and family and even hanging out at work!! Has my big parcel arrived at Lake yet?

Varkala Easter Monday

2008-03-24T07:56:00.000Z

Easter Sunday about 6.45pm

About 6.50pm

about 6.55pm

Top of the cliff.

Watching the waves.

View from North end of Varkala beach.

Been up and wandering around since 9am this morning getting some great pictures because the sun has come out to play. Last night there was a window of about 5 minutes when the sunset was amazing and yes, I got some photos of that too (In between spraying on the cleaning fluid!) I'm so hot I think I'm going to have a brain seizure. (Don't worry I'm exaggerating for comic affect.) Right going to put on the photos, cool down and then go back into the blazing, humid heat because I'm a sucker for punishment.

This so called broadband place is bloody slow. Just been reading the news about the snow. Ate red snaper last night with Jo German, Helen and this bonkers Italian guy called Renato. He's in his 50s and a DJ (yeah, pull the other one) and has just bought himself an Enfield Motorbike to drive around the sub continent. Enfield Bullets, or whatever the name, is are pretty cheap here and lots of guys are putting their lives at risk riding around on them. We are all going to meet up again for a group dinner tonight.

Found some tailors shops here and have my terrible trousers in my bag but it's not an easy mission they are all still closed! Do tailors work in this country? It's too late now and I'll have to wait until I get to Bombay. I fly back tomorrow afternoon. Wish I was here one more day. But also looking forward to seeing Bombay again. Really enjoyed being in that mad crazy fun city. I'm going to have a day out at the Elephant caves which are near to Bombay, at least that'll be one day of fresh air.

Easter Sunday. Varkala beach Kerala

2008-03-23T11:44:00.000Z

Too much cleaning fluid on the lens makes me look better!

View from cliff top this morning. I walked right round the furthest bend to the temple.

Gates to Krishna temple. Note blue Krishna dude in the chariot!

The fishermen singing and hauling in the nets.

Mr Prasanan rowing me. The only photo from an amazing morning. At least I got ONE before the camera died.

Mr Prasenan's house. The day before the backwater canoe.

Temple above the shops in Allepy

NOTE: The written order of this entry has messed up somehow. I'll leave you to sort it out coz I don't know how to cut and paste on this thing. Hope it makes sense.

Wow, even in the rain this place is amazing. Infact maybe the cloud and rain ADD to the atmosphere! Yes, I'm an eternal optimist. It reminds me of the wilds of Western New Zealand beaches and is stunningly beautiful. It's so humid BUT my skin feels great. really smooth, like I'm having a continuous sauna. Met a lone women travellers today whilst I was out walking trying to find the Hindu temple to krishna, us three were the only people mad enough to go walking in the mist and rain. Going to have dinner with them later, it'll be good to have company .My camara only works now if I spray it with my glasses cleaning fluid. It's an inspired find and seems to be doing the job but I'm going to run out of fluid soon. Right, lets try some pictures, problem is this computer is pretty slow. It's going to be a long blog whilst I wait for them to upload!

Yesterday in Allepy was a complete rain fest. I ended up playing chess with one of the lads from the hotel. I'm crap at chess but somehow managed to beat him, I think he let me win. Got the train to Varkala at 3.30. there are computerized machines everywhere and as long as you know the train number you can check on its progress. My train was runnin 63 minutes late. I got chatting to these girls from Bangalore, well kinda in sign language, and all they wanted to do was stroke my white arm. Very odd. But they kept an eye on my bags whilst I kept checking on the train progress, it was now 48 minutes late. Train was fine and very beautiful views. Everything obviously is so green and lush. Got a rickshaw to my place about 9pm and it's great. The biggest room I've stayed in yet and soft bed and sqidgy pillow. Came to the cliff face for dinner and had a couple of beers, which was bliss and slept like a log. Right, last picture of me is uploading. Got to have some with me in. Looking forward to loads of fish this evening. Got to go for another shower!

Slept in this morning and had a LONG bucket shower. It will all end soon and one of my pleasures is the showering, so I'm going to really revel in them now. Bought a brollie and after breakfast went walking. Through mud, puddles and the ocean, but my Thai toilet shoes can handle anything. Stumbled on a mosque which is on the beach hidden by the palm trees and later after I'd met Connie, the German we went to the Hindu temple, A special one for Krishna. The top half of this beach is incredibly holy for Hindus but all around were OAPs trying to sell us hash. Most bizarre! Bumped into more fishermen who were singing shanties and after 3 hours of walking ended back at the North cliff, where all the tourists are based. Met Helen at a cafe, whe's reading the same book as me and of course we got chatting and later we will all meet up. helen came out via Delhi, did an organised tour for a week up in the North and is now down here on her own.

Allepy Wet friday and saturday

2008-03-21T09:25:00.000Z

Last night slept really well the guys who run the hostel I'm staying in gave me this badminton raquet thing which when you turn it on fries all the mozzies. The strings are all electric and also they gave me this plug in mozzie killer too plus I had a net, so no worries.
It rained all night and when my alarm went off at 5am it was still raining. Bloody hell, I was going out in a canoe. Got in my pre booked rickshaw and met Mr Prasenan my rower and his little mate who rowed at the back. When we started off at 6 it was still dark and surprisingly NOT raining. It was really peaceful and magical. I got one photo of Mr Prasenan and some trees and water and then my camera lens messed up again because of the rain, so Jane's luck really kicked in and I have one picture of the highlight of my holiday. OK it was raining and overcast but I saw so much in that canoe because, unlike the big boats, we could go down the back alleys! Saw people washing in the river and cleaning their teeth and even washing their bullocks! (which help them in the paddie fields) We stopped for tea, coconuts and even partook in helping the locals rebuild their temple buy buying raffle tickets. Mr Prasenan's family live along the river so we just kept stopping off for chai and chats. But most of the people couldn't speak English. It was so beautiful and I'm going to have to come back and do it in good weather and with a camera! He had also prepared breakfast for us too, which was boiled bananas and the most delicious duck eggs. The big bananas here are too tough to eat so obviously everybody boils them. i was supposed to be back at 11am but we paddled back about 1.30. So pretty good really. It was a real bonus seeing the proper village life which happens on the backwaters. the big boats just can't fit down these narrow canals. If it wasn't still raining I would do it all again today.

When I returned to my hotel I chatted to the guys who run it. We talked about so much, one thing about Indians they always seem up for a chat and the more questions the better. So we discussed the communist party, which runs Kerala at the moment (Although all the guys said really it is just a fundamental Hindu party) Weird. Kerala has the world's only freely elected communist government. We talked about farming and the patents which big agro businesses have stolen from the Indians giving them the sole right to produce Basmati rice. And the way rice seeds don't germinate any more, forcing poor farmers to fork out more money to buy rice seeds every year. hence making the big companies, like monsanto, richer and richer. They all seemed pretty passionate about it all and for me it was interesting too.

Yesterday was a wash out really and the power went off for hours too (It's now Saturday) I'm off to Varkala (Kerelan beach resort)in a while after I've eaten some Thali. Busses run all day. haven't got anything booked for tonight but because of the lack of tourists I feel OK about it. Not looking forward toooo much to a few days on a sodden beach but have to check it out and people are pretty sure the rain will stop soon. Can't find my cable for my cameara so can't put the few pictures I have of Allepy on here.

Feel a bit homesick today because I was showing Joseph, one of the hotel lads, pictures of my house and family and friends, who are on my phone camera. oh well, it's only because of the weather! Right time to go. Wish I could do that canoe trip again!

Allepy Thursday

2008-03-20T08:32:00.000Z

Well I've made it to the gateway to the backwaters, Allepy itself is pretty ugly but I've found the people really helpful and kind. Unfortunately today and tomorrow are holidays for the Christians, a sizable chunk of the shopkeepers and all the bloody tailors (more on that later.) Don't even know if I'll be able to get to the resort for my canoe trip at 6am coz all the drivers will be on holiday too. It's a good 2mile walk away and I'll have to do it the pitch black. I'm going to do a trial run after I leave here and see if it's possible with a torch.

Well I'm here to moan and whinge today. Last night was a major disappointment on many levels and I felt really down last night and lonely and sad. Ahhhhhh! hey, after a month on your own in India it's amazing that it's only happened on one evening. (Well 2, the night of the evil mozzies was terrible) It's because I'm tired and my mozzie bites are really grim now and look scabby, but I've got antiseptic and iodine so I'll be OK.

Firstly I rushed back to my homestay for the cooking course and it had been cancelled because Leelu's Mum had just had a heart attack and the whole family had to run off to the hospital. really bad timing for me, I hope she's going to be OK but her cardiac arrest put stop to my culinary skills.

Didn't know what to do about food because the guy was coming with the trousers at 8pm, so I had a rushed meal down the road and got back to see the guy. OH MY GOD, the trousers are a complete disaster and because I'd paid for them in advance on my credit card there was fuck all I could do about it. I had a go at the man but he didn't care, he'd got my money. He did take them back to the warehouse for an hour or so to adjust them but still no luck. he didn't measure me properly so my waistband is high, I look a bit like Harold Bishop from neighbours and there is no distinction between hip and waist (Boy cut trousers) and my crotch is too low so when I sit down I look like a European pre-op lady boy. Legs are too tight and just terrible. So this afternoon I've been going around in a rickshaw with a lovely driver trying to find a tailor which is open so they can adjust them. Don't even know if it's going to be possible. But NO LUCK. Hopefully I'll sort it out in Bombay. Oh well I'll learn from this mistake but I just trusted that he would do a good job. What a joke.

Again because of the evil mozzies and heat I just didn't sleep well last night and this morning I was quite glad to leave Cochin behind. the rickshaw drivers and shop assistants had just about done my head in. They are all desperate to relieve you of all your money and it really wears you down having to ignore them all the time. My rickshaw driver almost refused to take me to the boat jetty saying he would drive me to Allepy for 500 Rs, about 8 quid. I had to shout at him to take me where I wanted to go and nearly had to try and get out of the moving vehicle with all my luggage. 8 quid isn't much I know for an hour and a half drive, but in a rickshaw it would have killed my back and the ferry to Ernakulam is 3 Rs and the bus from there to Allepy, which was pretty comfortable and high up so I got a good view, was 35 Rs. So you can see the difference. But yet again on my bus journeys I was the absolutely unique white person. Where are all the independent travellers? They are nowhere near me! This was my first journey in the light and I saw lots of interesting things A Hindu elephant procession with all the umbrellas but we'd passed it before I could get my camera out, loads of singing Christians with candles and somber faces. Political rally car and some great shop banners. My favourites were "The supreme pea shop" "Chavi shop" "Teenage Gentlemen's fashion" and "The Non-Unreliable shop" What?!

Well I hope this canoe thing works OK tomorrow, feel a bit dubious about the whole affair at the moment. I'm in such a Christian area I think everything might just close down! If so, eat a hotcross bun for me and please have a drink for me too. Never ever have I EVER been so sober, it's driving me mad! Never has the thought of a cold beer been so tempting. I think I'm going to wander around and find a 5 star hotel, I'm sure they'll have a bar!

Wednesday 19th. Fort Cochin

2008-03-19T10:48:00.000Z

Beach, boys and bikes.

Outside the Jain temple.

Women's spice selling cooperative.

Ayervedic medicine world distribution centre!

Ginger exchange. Exported all over the world.

High class brahmin temple

Chatting to the fishermen!

Fisherman and silver fish

Chinese fishing nets

Kathakali show

Kathakali face painting before the show.

Have done so much I need to write this down so I don't forget. Got an hour or so before my cooking class. I'm going to make chapatis and fish curry plus it's raining like every bloody afternoon here! The monsoon shouldn't start until June.
Anyway, I had a bit of crap fish meal last night. Bought the fish from the chinese fishing boat men and a little wide boy with a gammy leg said he'd cook it for me in his restaurant. I strangely said yes to this and went back after the kathakali show(more about that later) and the restaurant was well grubby and shoddy. He kept trying to chat me up and the sardines tasted like shit. I said that if he'd poisoined me I was gonna kill him. He said he'd look forward to me trying. Luckily I feel fine today. I have a stomach of iron,infact my stomach feels great here in Southern india. Perfect food for me. Touch wood.
Kathakali show was something else. Very atmoshpheric, lots of Hindi whailing and miming and strange eye movements. It was a story from the Ramayana and resembled something between the 2 ugly sisters and Punch and Judy An hour of it was enough and the half hour before when they were applying the makeup was fantastic.

Anyway hopefully I'm gonna add loads of photos today. My camera is full now and I'm moving them all over to disk and it's taking a while.
Last night I got eaten to death by Mosquitos. It was a nightmare. I just couldn't sleep and at 5am I was still awake. Creams, lotions and potions just don't work and my hips and back look like the himalayas. Luckily my face is untouched otherwise I'd look like quosimodo. Because I slept yesterday morning I feel fine today and hopefully now that I have industrial bhopal strength spray i will sleep tonight.

So today I hung out with the fishermen this morning and helped bring in the catch and drunk tea with them. I walked around and saw Portugese buildings, English parade ground, syrian orthodox churchcatholic church, which was full of people. (S'pose coz it's Easter)Brahmin high class temple (which I couldn't enter) Mosque, Jain temple ,Gujarati temple ,Ayervedic distribution centre ,spice exchange ,pepper exchange and women's cooperative of spices, (where I bought some more junk). Never ever ever have I smelt such a heady mix of spice, chilli and pepper. Truely astounding! This world trade system has been the life blood of this area since the destruction of Solomon's temple in Jerusalem circa bloody ages ago! Plus to top it off I've been bullied into buying two pairs of Kerelan linen trousers, not cheap but made to fit and the linen is superb. The guy will deliver them to my homestay at 8pm after the cooking. So all in all a particularly lazy day!!

Oh yeah, I'm leaving Cochin tomorrow and going on the bus to stay in Allepy for a couple of days. I need to work down to Trivandrum for the flight back to Bombay. Booked a good place in Allpey with mozzie nets and much cheaper than here. Plus I'm doing an independent tour of the backwaters by canoe. the guy will take me out from 6am until 11am on good Friday. It's gonna be amazing. Better than a house boat I think because they can't travel very far into the rivers coz they are too big and the noise of the engines frightens away all the wildlife! Maybe I'll get to see crocodiles. Jane in a canoe with crocodiles nearby is rather a scary picture

Fort Cochin Kerala

2008-03-18T16:51:00.000Z

Well I've made it to the place I most wanted to visit... here I am and it's been raining HARD most of the day but still took some great photos of the fishing nets, the Dutch/Portuguese/British/Hindu palace, the Synagogue and Jewish cemetery, and Kathakali ritual dancing (Yes, I've had a busy afternoon and evening) BUT this internet place is going to close in 5 minutes so no time to upload any pictures or write much at all. Bus journey was OK. Didn't sleep a wink and we crossed the Western/southern ghats at breakneck speed around hairpin bends. Part of me was glad it was dark and another part was sad i missed the obviously amazing views. Chatted to some student Doctors when we had a food break and I was reassured to know that about a quarter of the bus had life saving techniques. Here is amazing, the place just oozes history. Loads of religions and those of no faith all just getting on with their lives with minimal bother.

Yesterday evening after I left the internet cafe i ended up in this most amazing department store in Mysore. I bought 2 skirts, (worthy Monsoon quality) under a fiver each! Bloody hell, I was on cloud nine plus a top for about 50p and everything fits me perfectly. Amazing shopping here in India! I've just collected so much stuff I'm going to have to do some more posting. Shit, I'm in the mood to write and I'm being kicked off and not a bar in sight. Yes, Cochin is a dry town. Disaster. Oh, yeah one last thing bought my arline ticket on line here tonight. About 40 quid for a one way 2 hour journey back to Mumbai.

Mysore Monday

2008-03-17T09:03:00.000Z

Another of my favourite Indian friends casually strolling the wrong way up a busy road.

Random street shot in Mysore

Girls from Hampi.

Didn't sleep too well last night. For some reason rats were on my mind and I just couldn't get comfortable. Oh well, being knackered will help me sleep on the bus tonight. Nothing really planned for today. Could have gone to the tea plantations at Ooty, which is also the home of old men who roll beedis, the thin Indian cigarettes but I wouldn't have been back in time for the bus. Seen most of Mysore now and spent ages in the market this morning which is amazing but I got hassled by peddlars and gypsies and people with limbs missing and my patience was at the end of its tether. (Nothing pisses me off more than a stumpy limb being waggled in my face, I s'pose I should feel sympathy or disgust, but I feel nothing but annoyed. Does that make me really heartless?) Little boys kept asking me where I was from and to go with them to some shop and I just had to ignore them and then it just came too much for me and I had to leave the market lanes. Plus my camera wasn't working so I couldn't take any photos. I took it to a repair shop and 10 minutes later it was fixed. I'm sure in England I would have had to throw it out.

Indian cities are just PACKED with people, it's surprising that everything functions as well as it does. 70 million people just live in this state of Karnataka and all speak the Kannada language.WHich is beautiful and reminds me of Thai. Hindi, the national language is not in evidence at all but most people speak English. Questions from locals are pretty standard and go along these lines, with slight variations:

From where you come from, madam?
What is your good name, madam?
Did you like Blair or is it the Brown better, madam?
Are you here for business or the travel, madam?
How many members are in it, your party, madam?
Alone, where is your husband, madam?
Do you have a profession madam?
Ahh, teaching, it is a fine upstanding profession, madam.
How much do you earn per calendar month minus the tax and other sundries, madam?

The querky formality is quite endearing and I'll miss it when I return home.

Shit, I'm having trouble with my camera it's not loading properly onto the computer and I can't see the pictures. I've got loads of pictures on it now and I have moved some to disk but not all of them. I'll be well pissed off if technology lets me down. I never have any luck with cameras. Oh well, maybe someone has an idea what's wrong or maybe it's just the water from the massive rains yesterday. A guy is helping me out now What a nightmare if I've lost them.

As you can probably tell, (if you are still reading and have got this far) I haven't got much to do and at least here I get some peace and quiet. You can't really sit and relax in restaurants in Mysore because the seats are in demand and they just put the bill under your nose. Service is super efficient here. Tourist hotels have roof gardens but they are all closed at the moment due to the rain yesterday (Which caught everyone off guard) and the inside restaurants of tourist places are dark and depressing and incredibly empty. My rule for eating is only consume 'eatables' where there are loads of other people doing the same. Plus walking around in the incredible heat and humidity at the moment is awful!

Right, computer man has fixed my camara, I'd picked up a virus from yesterday's computer. So I'll try and put on some more pictures.

Boys on the way to school in Hampi.

Let loose in the zoo, Mysore.

mysore Sunday

2008-03-16T14:52:00.000Z

When I left the internet cafe last night it was pouring with rain. A torrent and the roads were almost rivers and no one was around. I rushed round the corner to my hotel and bashed straight into the biggest cow ever! It was lying across the pavement and even sitting down its head came up to my shoulders. It was huge and it really freaked me out to begin with and then I just laughed, the poor thing was as shocked as me. Cows really are the supreme power in India, they are the creatures with total freedom and all look so content and chilled out. But God, this one was a monster!

Slept well in my huge room even though there was a power cut whilst I was having a shower, that was tough feeling around in the pitch black for everything. This morning up early and I got eaten by mosquitos as I was gettting ready. Now I have really painful blisters between my toes and on my knuckles of my hands. weird creatures, mosquitos. Bought some cream and "my sores" aren't so sore any more.

Decided to do a tour today. It was with loads of Indians from the North. It was rather strange because we ended up with 2 hours in the zoo and only 40 mins this afternoon in the palace. This lack of organisation annoyed me so I decided to jump ship and not return to the tour bus. I hope they didn't wait too long for me! We also went to a Hindu shrine high up on a hill which was crammed full of worshippers and cows. It was all fun and interesting but a bit too commercial for me with hard core street traders trying to palm off rubbish wooden flutes and crappy wooden junk of some holy creature.

When we entered the zoo we had to pay for use of our camaras. It really amused me coz the guy selling the camara passes was a complete freak. He was the oldest, most perfect looking dwarf I have ever seen. When I got the pass I had to bite my tongue because i really wanted to ask if that meant I now had permission to take a photo of him. I obviously didn't (I have a few manners) but it did make me laugh and he was definitely the highlight of the zoo for me.

The palace was amazing. So big and grand. Because it's Sunday it was packed out and I felt a bit like herded cattle. The Princes of Mysore ruled for years and years until 1974. There were loads of pictures of them along with ones of Edward the 6th or 7th with his wife Alexandra and other overdressed pompous British fellows. You could see why both groups liked each other because the Brits and the princes were all into regalia, pomp and cross dressing.

I stayed in the grounds of the palace for ages and then went to the central bus station to buy my bus ticket to Cochin. yes, my last horrendous bus journey awaits me and Ive booked a few nights in a homestay with a woman who runs cookery courses. yes, I can't wait to do one of them.

Well I'm being kicked off again. the photos can't be moved but they are of the palace at night, lit by 50,ooo light bulbs only on a sunday evening between 7 and 8 pm. I ws lucky to see it. It was very beautiful and because of the rain, not many people were there. the other one of the palace is a good one at sunset. Right. I'm off. Hope i don't bump into my old friend again.

This is a cow from the shrine on the hill. For those who are into Hindu mythology (that's all of you, init!) this is the place where Durga the female incarnation of someone, killed the evil spirit living inside a bull. She was the only person with the power to kill the bull and banish the spirit. (Even strong he-men had failed.)

Mysore. Saturday

2008-03-15T15:56:00.000Z

Over slept this morning. Even the morning chorus of Indian men loudly clearing their voices and spitting didn't wake me. Went for breakfast at the same restaurant as yesterday and had a wonderful masala dosa. Got the 11am train out of Bangalore it was A/C and direct and took only 2 hours but involved me having to consume a 3 course meal. The trolley boys just kept handing out the food.. No wonder some Indians are so fat. Most food in the SOuth Of India is vegetarian because it is the Hindu heartland and pure Hindus don't eat meat or drink alcohol and they seem to manage it without the back street shinnanigans of Arab countries. (I spose coz it isn't an enforced law and they could eat and drink the stuff if they so wished) It suits me coz when you see the hygine here it realy puts you off eating any kind of flesh but once I'm in Kerala I'll go for the fish.

Right my hotel here is pretty central and is a popular haunt of Tibetian monks. I've seen loads of monks in their red gowns today and MY GOD they are gorgeous. Tall, healthy, shaved heads, perfect teeth and wonderful cheekbones. I wanna touch them all but know this will result in hours of ritulistic cleaning coz of the pollution of being touched by a woman. I wanna take some photos but know thats pretty much out of bounds too. Oh well!

My room is well cruddy but the bed and floor are clean. (Bed, I have 3 beds.) Infact the room is a cavern and looks fine from the bottom half down. the top half is a crumbling, rotting mess. I just hope the fan doesn't fall on me and chop me into a thousand pieces. here are pictures of my ensuite room! Again ,sorry I can't move the picture into position. I would post the pictureof my bathroom but it would probably make the more faint hearted of my friends worry about my health and sanity!!! Bought silk today to make into a skirt and lots of other stuff. it really is a shopper's paradise here. How the hell am I gonna carry it all!

I've booked myself on an all day sight seeing tour tomorrow. So i'll get to see everything and have a guide tell me stuff. the palace will be lit up with 5000 lights at 7pm til 8pm tomorrow because it's sunday. I hope I get to see it.

left my hotel and nipped next door to a sandelwood shop and ended up buying loads of crap and chatting to them with tea and cakes. A Canadian girl was there. She's been in Mysore for 3 months doing Yoga training with a high up guru in an Ashram here. We went wandering off together around the city and ended up having dinner together. It's good to have a chat after spending so much time alone. I'm really not meeting that many tourists.

Bangalore Friday

2008-03-14T15:56:00.000Z

Yesterday afternoon sat and drunk mango juice on a terrace restaurant overlooking the temple and chatted to the owner and his Dad whilst they played Grieg's piano concerto on their stero. They guy was really into his classical! Was really relaxing. Then I walked along the river and saw all the locals washing their clothes. Mostly men with all the saris and dhotis. then SHiv drove me to Hospet to catch the train He found a comfortable place on the wall for me in the station, which was packed out and left me. After he'd gone I wandered to find the 1st class waiting room.(Didn't want him to know I was going first class) Masive and empty and not much character with a huge plasma TV screen which had no signal. Train pulled in on time but our names were not on the carriage which is normal for assigning seats. so on I got onto the first class carriage without knowing my seat number. Luckily an Indian guy who I'd met at the ruins was with me and he'd seen my ticket so knew I was class 1A but the guard when he saw me went mad and tried to kick me off into 2nd class, even showing my eticket didn't help/. Luckily the old Indian came to my rescue giving him abuse and I eventually got taken to the poshest end of the carriage. Later the Indian told me that coz I had a back pack I didn't look right for such expensive travel luxuries. Oh well all good and clean and comfortable and I was in a cabin with an Indian business man and a Japanese rural development officier. But no one really spoke and I just read my book. Infact in one respect 2nd class far more interesting .
Arrived in Bangalore at 6am and got a bit of a seedy place tonight near the station but it's got HOT water. Oh my God and the bathroom is massive....what wonderful bucketshower water fights could be had in there!! Oh well, just have to dream! My room is near the cleaners quarters and when I left later this morning there were about 10 men all sleeping on the floor around my bedroom door. I had to climb over them. Weird.
Love Bangalore though. Traffic is bad and rickshaws are allowed here, unlike Bombay, so I've had some pretty mental traffic weaving experiences. Had the most amazing food. The best yet was near to the hotel and was SOuthern Indian Thali. Loads of dishes with rice and chapatis and puffed up bread and everytime I finished a dish they quickly gave me another one. Such amazing service. It was like fat girl and feeders! All vegetarian and all to die for. Thai food is great, turkish too and fish and chips and baked beans but OH MY GOD indian cuisine beats them all. I could have died a happy woman after that meal (well, maybe not) Plus the best juice and mangos with icecream for dessert. The whole experince took hours. Want to do it all again tomorrow but I'm off to Mysore and the grand palace there. BUt I'm sure I'll come back to Bangalore. It's a full on western city here with so much good shopping. Lots of book shops and amazing kids books which aren't for sale in the UK any more. Old copies of Mr Men books and ancient enid blyton. It sends shivers of excitement right through me. Could have spent hours in the book shops but I have to carry everything and I'm not going through another post office experience again YET> Right it's 10pm and I'm being kicked off, night.

Right let's finish off Bangalore. Here is a picture of my rickshaw driver who fancied himself as a bit of a bollywood star. When I was taking photos of vehicles, more about them later he was adament that I took one of him so he promptly turned round WHILST DRIVING THROUGH MENTAL TRAFFIC. Busses, rickshaws and trucks just easily swerved round us. Indians have a 6th sense of servival. Well the massive JESUS on the front of the bus might have been religious coz it seems that the Christian community here go into advertising the Lord on public and private transport. Here's a great rear view of a rickshaw in Bangalore. (Sorry pictures have gone to top of page and I can't seem to move them or delete them!)

still in Hampi Thursday!

2008-03-13T09:08:00.001Z

Right, gotta get this down before I go off on my over night firstclass train to Bangalore this evening. This morning Shiv met me at 8.30 and off we drove through the most amazing paddie fields, the best type of vivid green and loads of banana plantations. It was so beautiful. We parked up the rickshaw and then had to get onto this coracle for the river crossing. It spun in circles all the way across and coz I was away from the tourist areas the guys were really staring at me. Thank God I was wearing a shirt. Then Shiv and I walked for about 3 miles and ended up at this hill . We had to climb 600 steps in the 11am heat and at the top was a temple to Hanuman the Hindu monkey god. In Hindu mythology he was born here. He's the playful trouble maker in the Ramayana. If any of you lot remember Monkey magic that Chinese, Japanese Buddhist freaky kids programme where he said MONKEY alot and flew around on a cloud? Well it's him, but not the mental TV version. It was so peaceful and we just sat for ages in the temple while the monks chanted and read books. No pictures inside but you can get a general idea from this picture.
The Saddhu, who I'm gonna post on yesterday's blog was there and just in a cloth this time and he ended up blessing us. Got a nice orange mark on my face this time. Right just posted some bed covers back to UK. Ended up as a bit of a con really. bloody ridiculously expensive to post but was an experience in the post office. Covers had to be sewn in white cloth and then sealed with wax. I had to go and copy my passport and give 20 Rs backhander to the postman for his 'helpful free advice'. He even had the cheek to ask if I was retired and that's way I could have long holiday in India. I had a go at him saying bloody hell mate, get your eyes checked.

Still in Hampi Wednesday

2008-03-12T15:19:00.000Z

Well, the mosquito net was pretty but the pillow was from hell. Like a rock so I ended up sleeping for a few hours on my pile of clothes. I'm so lucky that I can funtion fairly OK on minimal sleep. Computer today is shite, no USB port so no photos, which is a shame and no power outside and noletterson the keyboard so I'm having to touch typein thedark. Plus the space bar seems a bit cruddy too. But I had a great dinner so nothing can piss me off. Hampi is a totally vegetarian village (Coz it;s a religious site) and there is no beer either which is obviously a bigger problem for me, but the food is divine.

Moved to another computer. This one is better but I'm having problems with big pictures. I need to make them smaller to upload them. I;ll try again!

This morning I was upat 5 and at the temple for 6. I met the guide who was going to take me up the hill but it was dark and I was the only tourist around He told me to get on the back of his bike and I just didn;t feel too good about this. He told me to relax he was government of India guide but I still wasn't convinced and then I had a brainwave I took out my guide book which I had bought yesterday from a street kid and fired a few questions at him which i thought only a guide would know...like the end of the second dynasty dates and to name the different types of columns and their defining features and he passed with flying colours so off we went. he had to help me up the hill.As many of you know I'm a complete joey climbing hills and after all my twisted ankles and scrapped knees I was adamant I wouldn't fall down again so it was a slow process. He must have thought I was a right retard.
Sunrise was OK but a tad cloudy like a good English one, yesterday's was better and then we went past the Jain ashram, he told me all the monks are completely naked all the time and never even as much as kill a fly. Jesus, what a top religion jainism is. Love it!
then I hired a rickshaw driver who seemed very poor and his English was crap but he was smiley and helpful so I decided on him. We drove like mad bastards through the jungle stopping off for me to see massive shiva and krishna temples and a big lingam(Big willy temple with lots of water flowing round it) It's just been so quiet and in the last temple of the day men were playing the rock columns which supported the building and they sounded just like drums and panpipes. Was amazing.
then we rushed up a hill to catch the sunrise which wasn't as good as yesterday either. Saw 2 guys playing a board game at this place and I went over to see if i could have a game of whatever it was. I was horrified the idiots were playing snakes and ladders...what the hell?!!
Going out again with rickshaw Shiv tomorrow morning on a riverside race. I need to wear a more supportive bra I think!. One last try with photos. Night

yes, managed it. This is a massive ganesh statue .

This a family who couldn't speak a work of English but were more than willing to have their photos taken. One thing I've noticed is the bright colours of the women's saris. They are amazing. Men are grimmer and all seem to wear horrid nylon slacks and think moustaches are really sexy.

Hampi

2008-03-11T15:38:00.000Z

Made it! Bloody hell what a cool place it is here. Sorry I don't know how to turn the photos round but at least it is on! Oh I do now. This is the main bazaar street in Hampi and the temple is at the end and is amazing. Got here about 10am and yet again not a wink of sleep. the bus was something else but at least I had leg room and it was fairly comfortable but the 12 hours of bumpy roads and mad helter skelter driving put stop to any kind of sleep. the bus had JESUS written really massively on the front windscreen. Unfortunately I didn't get my camera out in time but it did make me laugh coz the words impaired the driver's vision and why the hell was Jesus written there? I don't think it had anything to do with the son of God! Last night before I left on the journey I had my last meal at the hotel and got chatting to this rather serious looking German woman but she was pretty friendly really. She was there for an 11 day ayervedic health treatment she was having massages everyday and had to only eat fruit for 7 days. Doesn't sound too much fun to me. I offered her half my beer but she obviously refused to partake!
Booked ahead again for this place and chose a place called Vicky's (THere you go Vicky because it was named after you! cheers for your comment on yesterdays blog we must have been thinking about each other at the same time.) It's good and clean and I crashed out til 3pm, which isn;t a bad thing coz it's just too hot to be outside. I'm really not getting much of a tan, you won't believe I've been to India.
then I got up and wandered around. This place is magical. loads of hindu worshippers and hippies and families and locals all just stolling around. The main temple is about 600 years old but lots of the ruins are much older. Saw the sunset from a hill behind the temple t'was amazing like a massive red fluffy peach. Really looked 3D. Tomorrow I'm up at 6 for a rickshaw drive to another hill which has been declared one of the best places in the world to see a sun rise!
Shouldn't be bad then! Got chatting to a shop owner and her daughter and went inside the temple. You can't take photos inside but there was a holy elephant which will bless you with it's trunk and I got blessed by a holy man and made to drink holy water...I got carried away and really got into character and drunk it so probably will catch some kinda lurgy now. Got a red bhindi mark put on my face too. Look like a local now!
Loads going on.
Just had Thali, which is loads of individual curries and chapatis and rice and 2 bananas for dessert for about 80p. was really tasty but the owner just wanted to sell me Bangh lassi which is the yoghurt drink laced with hash. I just had to tell him that it's not a good idea to get really stoned on your own in a new place when you are carrying all you important documents on you. (Well I didn't tell him the last bit) Right a few last photos of the band which paraded through earlier playing pretty good jazz and the shopkeeper and her daughter. Up at 5 tomorrow so I'm off to my bed which has a wonderful vibrant pink mosquito net over it.

Monday

2008-03-10T12:07:00.000Z

Bought myself an amber necklace last night. God knows if it's the real thing. I made the guy selling it swear on his mother and children's life that it was, and he did. Anyway it doesn't matter if I've been swindled I really love it. The jewellery here so far hasn't really done much for me. It's either big gaudy rocks or something you could have found at Finmere market for about the same price. Today has been cooler which has been fantastic so I've been out longer. Because I had to change some money I've had more money on me than usual. I feel really safe here but to be extra secure I bunged my wad of big notes into the middle section of my facewipes and put the extra wipes back over the top and sealed them back down. An inspired piece of security for when I was swimming.

Having luck putting photos onto facebook but not on here which is a bummer really coz some of you lot don't partake in the facebook farce. Oh well. I think I've just got to be more patient and maybe it'll work.

My Thai toilet shoes are still going strong. (Yes, I have flip flops which are only really worn by Thai people when they enter public toilets) which I bought in Thailand in 1996 and I have worn them every summer. Yes, I do wash them but they are made out of some magical material. They cost me about 50p and are the biggest footware bargain ever!

My over night bus leaves for Hampi at 9.30 tonight. God knows what joys await me. Still haven't got a blow up pillow but at least I've got my jacket and socks handy coz the air con here is fierce. Booked a couple of nights in a small place in Hampi which looked good in the guide. the guy who answered the phone said that he'd send his son to pick me up from the station and asked if a wanted a veg or non veg breakfast...sounds alright to me

Goa Sunday

2008-03-09T15:04:00.000Z

Last night I had to attempt to climb the small hill on the rocks back to my place. It was pitch black and I'd had another few beers with this English guy who was telling me loads of funny stories about his life. We'd been listening to this live music. It was all good fun but when I said good night I realised I had to climb this bloody hill. Luckily I managed to borrow a torch off some corner shop guy (Yes, there are corner shops run by Indians not British!) Jesus,... dogs barking I was wearing flip flops, feeling a bit tired and slightly pissed and then the thought of snakes, rats and scorpions crossed my mind. I managed to find a long stick to fight off attackers shouted out all the way up the hill and I was fine. Tonight I'm taking the road way home by rickshaw!

Today has been just too hot and I've heard that Hampi is gonna be even hotter coz it's inland. Anyway walked to a really quiet beach and got chatting to this English guy who was fishing. Just chilled out with my book and realised that I've just about had enough time here. I love the sea but lounging around all day on my own isn't totally brilliant. It would be better if someone was here with me and better still if I could have a game of backgammon or cards. But no games around. It's not like Turkey or Thailand where there are bar staff always willing to have a game of connect 4 with you! Yes, I know I'm sad!

Right last night in my big hut tonight. Last night I could hear the monkeys screaming at each other, cats shagging and the dogs fighting even my earplugs didn't help and to be honest it was quite fun listening to the complete madness outside. The only problem is I didn't sleep enough so an early one for me tonight I think.

Goa saturday

2008-03-08T15:10:00.000Z

It's about 8.40 and in a bit I'm gonna go and eat fish on the beach. Had a great day of doing sod all really. Sat on the beach, swum,read, slept and swum a bit more. It's been so hot but I think the suncream and umbrella have saved me. I"m so white but now a shade of pink! if you want to check out where I am staying this is the link www.bhaktikutir.com This link is funny check out the over the top language. I'm so glad I booked in Bombay coz I wouldn't have got in otherwise. Even the deckchairs are proper German manufacturing. (It's a german/goan place) In fact the whole beach is beautiful and everything is SOLID. On other beaches all over the world I've been to it always seems that objects are gonna bend or fall apart as soon as you sit or lean on anything, but not here!! And to top it off not a German in site! Infact it's really quiet. Just had a beer on the beach...(my ayervedic milk drinks and wheat juices are just not touching the spot) the guy I was talking to was saying how it's coming to the end of the season. Westerners have no holiday at the moment but it'll probably pick up over Easter.
Booked my travel to Hampi and Bangalore. Got to go through the travel hell vortex on an over night bus to Hampi. Gonna buy pillow and got more sarongs now. My train to Bangalore is the full monty. Air con class 1 luxury, no more roughing it for me on the train network. 3 days is enough here for me alone, but God what perfect romantic luxury for a couple. I'm off to see some ancient rocks and wander around ancient sites in 40 degree heat...sounds like fun. Think the rat temple might be in Hampi, I'll give that a miss if it is.

Palolem GOA Friday afternoon

2008-03-07T10:50:00.000Z

Right, here we go again. It is just TOOOOOO hot out and I'm getting brain fry. This place has got aircon so I'm gonna chill for a while. Well, I have made it to paradise. Can't believe it. Palolem is beautiful and it isn't as busy as I thought it would be. A few days ago on the streets of Bombay I pre booked 3 nights in the recommended place in Rough Guide. So glad I did, I've got my own double room with huge bed and mosquito net.,an array of essential oils to burn to keep away the mozzies and my own private bathroom which is outside and totally amazing. It's another massive bucket shower room and I spent an hour in there earlier rubbing away the super embedded grime of my sleeper train from Bombay. Plus they offer yoga, massage and pilates. Bloody hell I really am gonna turn into a hippie. Never have I stayed in such paradise! he he I can't believe it.

My foray into bollywood stardom was an experience I'm glad I had but I wouldn't rush to do it again. the day was long and hot and we were taken to this outside location where some of the lads had to dress up as a football team and we were the supporters and had to stand at the sides with canadian flags and I had a massive maple leaf painted on my face. At least this acted as sunblock and I didn't catch the sun at all! Met some young gap year couples and we got chatting which made the time pass a bit quicker. It was interesting watching the producer and others with the lights and cameras but the stars were so bitchy and horrible. The famous guy was a right prima dona, he had to score the winning goal which was tough coz he was crap at footie.

The bollywood primadonna

Jane the extra. Come on Canada!

The poverty of bombay was just getting too much for me, 3 days in this city is definitely enough. Even in the women's only waiting room in the station I watched two women (who were wearing the most gorgeous saris, by the way) remove cardboard boxes which they had attached under the seats and lay them out ready for a nights sleep. I just can't get my head round it.

Train stations here look gorgeous from the outside. True good British designs, but God they are hell inside. Families live on the platform and between the lines. Anyway, found the train. MY GOD it was a long one. I was totally unprepared for last night. It was character building because I didn't have a pillow or a blanket only sarongs and clothes. the carriages were one step up form hell in my opinion. Anyone who says travelling by standard sleeper class in India is OK is either a lier or mad. it was my fault for not being prepared. Got chatting to an 83 year old Indian woman and we swapped beds coz she had been given the middle bunk and me the bottom. She was happy about that. she told me about her Dad and the British rule and how things have changed now,she was totally pro UK. BUT again very difficult to understand. I had to help her to the toilet.. Jesus, my first introduction to train bogs were with an OAP. Sometimes I pinch myself to make sure its real!

The night was loud, noisy and uncomfortable but old granny came up trumps when she saw how cold I was she went straight to her bag and pulled out a lovely piece of freshly washed cotton for me to have. So kind of her. Still didn't sleep but like Dad says shutting your eyes is almost as good. Cheers Dad, you got me through the night. THe stink of shit through the barred windows (There wasn't any glass) was unbelievable. Well it's over now and I feel OK. Infact in the morning the chaiwallahs (Tea sellers ) came screaming through the carriages and I had the best cup of tea of my life! The old lady was called D.V. Fenani and she has invited me to visit her flat when I go back to Bombay at the end of the month. Think I'll give that a miss but I'll send her a postcard from Oxford.

An hour taxi ride through tropical paradise and 12 hours on the train and finally I'm here now in the best resort I've ever stayed in. So many ups and downs in just one day. Right off to change some money and walk back on to the beach.

3rd BOMBAY

2008-03-05T14:52:00.000Z

knackard tonight. Today spent ages in the prince of wales museum which now has a long hindi name. Great fun. I especially liked the miniture pictures, massive statues of different gods and tantric section. Was so hot outside today it was good to while away a few hours here and it wasn't packed, which is a rarity in this city.

Prince of Wales museum.

When I left my hotel this morning I got approached by a guy who looked kinda normal. (Not your average dodgy charas/drug pusher type who seems to pop up all over the place) He told me that he was casting western extras for a bollywood movie. He needed 45 people and wondered if I was interested. I don't know why but I trusted him and we got chatting and well tomorrow I;ve got to be outside Mc DOnalds at 6am. I've got a 12 hour day at the bollywood studios ahead of me!! Should be an adventure, God knows what it'll be like but we get free food and will be paid 500 rupees About 7 quid. i'll let you know, if I come out alive! Wish I knew some bollywood actors. Oh well.
Went and walked around the park this afternoon. Full of kids and families. it seems like hardly any children go to school here. then went to my first hindu temple this eve. Was the main one to Malaxshmi (Some female incarnation) Kinda freaked me out with all the incense and spinning around and serious idol worship. Got chatting to a woman who tried to give me the basics of Hinduism in 10 minutes...a full on task. But she was cool and didn't mind all my questions. Back in a taxi (Once I'd found my shoes in the huge pile outside)
Lots of taxis today and the driving is something else here. I just sit calmly in the back thinking, if I'm gonna die I'm gonna die. ALL cars beep their horns ALLthe time. It's like a weird kinda of bird song. right I'm going now. I've booked an "eco hut "(What the hell is that...maybe it just doesn't have a toilet and we all have to shit behind the huts) on palolem beach in Goa for Friday and Saturday. Right bye for now.

Wonder what makes a zoroastrian bank so special?!

Inside VT station. My last view of Bombay as I left for Goa.

2nd day BOMBAY

2008-03-04T16:14:00.000Z

The 'iconic' Gateway of India welcomes me to Bombay!

Tuesday 4th March

Keyboard is cranky so this might take a while and there will be loads of errors. (Blame the tool!)
Right all great so far. Bombay is fucking MAD-sorry Mum. Flight was great for me but twas three flights all together so many people were angry at delays but for me I just waltzed on. 2 huge glasses of wine at the back of the plane with all the old granny Indians going home(they weren't drinking though) and 2 bags of spicy chickpeas made me their best friend...wow, you like them?! said one OAP. Best airline food I've ever had - top notch indian grub in my opinion. so full I slept for 6 hours so pretty goood start.
Got a taxi to centre. My God the traffic and people. The sights frm the airport were amazing, there is a bridge being built and families are living in the huge metal pipes that will eventualy support the structure. Any available space for a beggar or homeless person is used. I've read about this kind of poverty but nothing can prepare you for when you see it. Just so many people everywhere.

Taxis are wonderful here. Brown old things that just weave in and out. all tarted up by the owner with leopard print seats or 70s psychedelica. i'm just travelling all over the place by them and now I know how the meters work it's really good fun. It's just impossible to walk anywhere coz I can't cross the roads and I'll just fall over in the pot holes coz I'm so clumsy. first stop yesterday was the gateway of India which at the moment looks like a huge monument on a rubbish dump. Grim start. walked around yesterday getting bearings and ended up havning dinner with a German girl whos been here for 5 months and now speaks English with an Indian accent.
This morning I was up and out really early...hotel room is so much like Thailand. Bucket showers which are fantastic...better than western ones coz you can just fling water everywhere. Bed is rock solid too which doesn't bother me. acctually really good for my back. Went to VT which is the best railway station the brits ever built (supposedly)and is a UNESCO site. it's a more impressive St. Pancreas. Impossible to buy my train ticket to Goa just loads of Indians in long queues with lots of pieces of paper. Luckilyy a man, obviously on commision, took me to a back alley (oh err) and I got an e ticket from a young man and his computer. Hope it works I'm off over night 12 hour trip by sleeper train to Goa. Now I'm here I realise what a long trip down south I have.
Then off to an art gallery, pretty dull and the wonderful shop called fab india...bought clothes for neices and nephews and a few of the newbies who have/are going to arrive. also top a nd trousers for me.
Then off to Ghandi's house। Liked this place, in a posh leafy suburb . great pictures and displays of ghandi and his room he stayed in plus loads of puppets acting out his life.This really appealled to me and took loads of pictures...I'll see if I can download them here.

Ghandi's last moments as acted by wax puppets.

Crawford market pictures and my gummy guide!

THis part of Bombay is intense and full on and was going to find out where the jewellry market was but just had an overload. especially when I saw untouchables scraping around unblocking a huge sewer. Went into a jain temple to get my breath back. jains wear special masks so they can't swalllow flies (Might take it up) Loved their temple, full of black buddhas and women in masks sweeping up the insects and singing and men were painting the walls with pictures of birds and horses. Really peaceful. Went upto the Jain animal sanctury and fed a few special cows...very odd and I was strictly banned from taking photos of this most religous site.
At sunset I walked on the chowpatty beach. Over rated, dirty scumy place really but ended up eating street food froma vendor. had Bell puri...a kind of spicy rice crispy dish with lots of herbs and fried noodles...yummy but strange. Was sitting at the table chatting to a couple on holiday from delhi when the waiters all went mad taking the tables and chairs away in a flash. we had to quickly stand as our seats were whipped away. the local police were doing a drive by and they don't ahve permission to put out tables. Never have I seen so many tables and chairs vanish so quickly!

Chowpatty beach.

Taxi ride to another jain temple, decided I like them alot coz the insence smells so good and there are so many females around. Drove by the zoroastrian towers of silence, where the parsi people lay out their dead so they can be pecked by vultures...cool! nfortunatly only zoroastrains can go in. Damn.
then taxi back to Colaba district which is my home area. Toursity and full on, with people trying to sell you tat. This evening my block had a power cut they gave me a candle to get me to my room and luckily I have a torch. Bucket shower by torch and hopefully power will be restored when I get back! Quick walk around colaba causeway and I ended up eating dinner in an Iranian restaurant. Bloody amazing. Wanted to ask waiter for receipe of this amazing masala dish. Spices are on a different level here, can't explain it!! not hotter, just more layers of flavour. Then a walk to this internet cafe. Right gonna see if I can put on some photos I have a cable in my bag and email this link to you all. Hope this works. Bye for now

This is an old government of India car which I saw near the gates of VT station. Check out the spike!

This is a typical taxi on a quiet street.

Planning stage

2008-02-06T09:26:00.000Z

6th Feb 08

Well this is going to be my record of my trip around the sub continent. I've got less than 4 weeks to go and to be honest I don't feel that planned. I've got my visa and had my injections and have two nights booked in a hotel in Bombay. Only 26 days of my holiday left to organise.