In Berlin

Right, ready for Berlin! Great city. It's so interesting and I'm investigating out loads of places. The differences between the architecture of East and West are so pronounced and being in Alexander Platz this afternoon(East) really bought home the struggle the people went through to get that wall down. They have a free display of their fight to freedom. the East Germans were a strict lot and they fought against the collapse of the system for a long time.

Went to a great museum this morning too, the history of the DDR (East Germany). It was all hands on and I saw their school books,felt the coffee beans(Coffee had to bought with western currencies so they doctored coffee with wheat and maize), school books and Pioneer Uniforms, clothes of the East, of which everything was synthetic and ugly, causing eye chaffing from how ugly everyone was and nose chaffing, because of the excessive sweating. Cotton, like coffee was only available on the western markets! Socialist conditioning started from potty training when all the kids in the kindergarten got put on the potties all in a line and no child was allowed to move until everyone had been. So bizarre. I saw photos of a building in Alexander Platz which was painted in the 70s with tonnes of asbestos paint (This paint had been banned for 5 years) , thank god now it has now been destroyed. Other great facts...East Germans spent most of their free time gardenning...they had the highest percentage of allotments in the world and spent lots of time naked. taking your clothes of in parks and beaches was anti establishment as well as pro because it completely broke down all class barriers!

Well enough facts, roads are very wide here and boulavardy, shops are massive with huge doors I have to really push hard to open (Germans must have strong muscles). Everyone is friendly and the city has a really relaxed vibe. Infact I think it's the most laid back city I have ever been to. People do all seem to have excessive hair, and still like to wear dead ugly scarves and shoes. (I noticed this fact over 20 years ago when I first visited Germany) Sorry Germans, get yourself some decent SHOES it's the 21st century. Also shops sell loads of synthetic flowers...yuck, yuck,yuck. Reminds me of my Aunty Eileen's flat. Urghhhh.Infact I don't think I've seen a living breathing flower since I arrived, even the gardens here are just full of trees and grass. (Beautiful trees and grass I hasten to add.)

I had my first German meal on the evening I arrived. Glad I got that over with...it won't be repeated with all of the great international cusine available. Had sushi for lunch..it was so good and filling. Haven't ever had such good sushi in UK, I think this is coz Yo Sushi and Marks and Spencers have a mafia like hold over sushi production back home!

Tomorrow is the biggest gay Pride festival in Europe. Probably will go and check it out after I have been to the Saturday Market. Shopping here is a bit dissapointing coz German style and mine don't really get and anything interesting is so bloody expensive. Even postcards cost more than a pound each!

My Hotel is great. really friendly coule who run it. This morning we sat and talked about Michael Jackson. Bloody hell, is he really dead...or do you think there is a possibility he might rise again?
Time running out here. I'm off to get a jumper from my room, Berlin is colder than I imagined and then off to sample more beer. Yes, it's good, very very good. Especially the weis beer and berliner beer and warstein beer. back on the s bahn to the east I think. Got some good grungier bars over there. The West is a bit staid and dusty with all of their C and A shops and they still have Woolies...can you believe it?
I would add some pictures but I don't have time and I want to get back out into the city. If you have read this to the end, congratulations, I feel like I have been waffling on for ages!

Rishikesh finally updated from 12 March.

Prayer time in Haridwar. Most holy river Ganges at 6.30pm
The flowers that float in the ganges


Me in Delhi at the Qitb Minar

Me on Holi...it washed off OK but is still on my hands and I think my jeans and top are ruined!





Pre Holi Holi at Sanju's cousins house in Jaipur.




Sanju's cousins wife and kids. Not all hers!!!







How do they keep the elephants still to paint them?!






My favourite door in the Palace of Jaipur.








Freaky man on hobby horse in Elephant festival. Jaipur.









The Elephant parade

Me in the Cenotaphs of Jaipur. (Monuments to Maharajas who have died.)

Right update time! The 10th of March was the Elephant festival in Jaipur. It was OK but a bit too staged and touristy for me. All of the white people were sitting in a caged area and all the locals were being beaten off with sticks if they ventured anywhere near our shaded VIP section. Of course this did not put me in a relaxed frame of mind for enjoying the festivities. But even so I saw some great Elelphants and wonderful dancing. In the morning I went to the lovely Palace and the cenotaphs but Jaipur's traffic is the worst I have seen. THANK YOU SAnju for being such a great driver!

In the evening me and three other tourists and drivers went off for a meal at Sanju's cousins house. I had beer and chapatis and Dhal and Aloo Gobi and Raita and roti and rice. I was the only foreigner there who ate everything and all the drivers siad they have never met such a woman who can scoff so much of their great cuisine. I went upstairs to Thank the women who cooked and I even offered to wash up but of course they refused. Seeing how the family lived was an eye opener...it was the shabby quality of the building itself which affected me most. But the food was great and I still haven't been ill. Apart from that one morning!

The 11th was Holi. SO we left at 4am coz the main highways are too dangerous to travel on later in the day. We bombed it back to Delhi with four of the nephews in the back. It was a trecherous journey and I saw about 4 different road accidents. I couldn't sleep the whole way back.

I got dropped off in a LOUD hotel in the centre of Delhi and they charged me over 50 quid coz it was Holi, but hey, I got a room. Wandered out alone about 10am and soon hurried back because of the harrassment and then went back out again about 2pm. Got in a Tuk Tuk with a Christian from Tamil Nadu. he was most disparaging about Holi but he was interesting to talk to and he took me to some of the sights I missed on my first trip. Such as the big tower the Mughals built to do astronomy in the 9th century. I then wandered around near India gate and got hassled again and laughed at coz I was totally pink!! (Kids chased me with more paint but I was able to run away from them!)

In the evening I met back up with Sanju who had enjoyed his Holi drinking WHiskey and being with his family. He took me back to his house. NOw that was an experience. NEVER HAVE I seen squalor outside. A real slum dog situation. His room he rented with his Mum, Dad, neice, nephew and sister was clean and good but as the only working member of his family he had many people to support. (His brother died in a motor bike accident 2 years ago) They fed me and Mum and sister were a bit embarrassed to have a white person there but when I GOT BACK TO MY HOTEL THINGS TURNED A BIT nasty. I gave him a tip and he told me it wasn't enough. I was upset, he was angry, so to appease him I doubled his tip,(the atmosphere was pretty tense) Looking back at it now my initial tip was more than adequate, he was just after as much money from me as possible. He took advantage...but hey, he has got a lot of people to support and I can't blame him for trying his luck with me!! From his point of view I was a very rich woman...

Anyway forget that coz now I'm in beautiful Rishikesh in the foothills of the Himalayas and it's really peaceful and calm here. Right I'm back into the sun now and hopefully will come back later.

Last day

My best cuppa in India.

View from the bridge

Liked the inscription and the view. Not so sure about the last statement though

Rama hugging a Shiva Linga...a penis. Weird concept!

Me in a 12 story temple which reminded me of something from Barry Island Butlins.

Lovely flowers...I will miss you

My last sunset in India from the ashram ghat. (Steps near the water)

Devottees with lit candles from the holy fire.

The female sanscrit students praying to the holy river.

Shiva statue in the light, behind is Mother Ganges.

An hour of prayer, singing chanting and clapping. The yellow clad guys are young sanscrit students.

Wow, what a great place to end my holiday. I can imagine when it is high season here in the summer all of the ashrams and holy places have a Butlins Holiday camp feel about them but at the moment things are pretty quiet and chilled out because there is still snow on the mountains and the temple and hole hangs out on the mountain side are not open yet, hence gurus and pilgrims are not using this town as a base.

I had a guide all day today and he was great. Vikram was an old guy and I think old is the way to go in India they are more trustworthy and not so money grabbing. He took me around 20 odd temples all on different themes and because I asked loads of questions he gave me a blow by blow account of the whole realm of god and goddesses and incarnations and vehicles and bodyguards. I'm telling you..this Hindu stuff is amazing and so ridiculous...but taken so seriously. Parvati sacrificed herself for some reason and 51 body parts of hers fell to Earth(well in this region of the Himalayas) so there are 51 temples of hers related to the relevant body part. In Shirikesh there is the tears temple, and the tongue temple. Further up the mountainside is a temple devoted to her nipple which fell to Earth. So cool!!!

This afternoon I chilled at the hotel. It's lovely here and the food is the best yet. I have totally gone to town today because it's my last day. Even the tea tastes better here and I took a photo of my favourite tasting cuppa this morning!!

Met Vikram again at 5pm and he took me off to the hour long service by the waters edge. Without him I would never have found the place. He was worth his weight in gold and very helpful. We went to the oldest temple here first...from the 5th centuryAD. Was good to see it because everything here seems really new.

The prayer time was great and had a kinda evangelical feeling about it...but more fun. Lots of clapping and swaying and singing. My god the music is loud but it really was emotional seeing loads of different people there and the beautiful river ganges flowing by. At sunset it goes a light blue colour and roars by. Also there are loads of fish in it...so itcan't be that polluted here.

gonna go back to hotel soon and get packed and showered ready for my 4am departure tomorrow morning. I've had to buy another bag to check in. I really hope I don't have to pay more and that the man in London was right about the 40 kilo weight allowance!

I've totally enjoyed this trip...I've been ripped off and hassled but the service and adventures that I have had have been unbelievable and i have done and seen soooooooo much. Can't believe I have gone from desert to mountain in one week!!

I'm ready to leave though...3 weeks alone is more than enough and looking forward to getting back to my house and seeing friends and family. Right that's it. Namaste.

Jaipur

More holy rats, drinking holy milk this time!
at the Amber Fort, Jaipur. The Mother on the right was very forceful and wanted her children to be photographed with a 'white person'.
Beautiful silver inlay. Was outstanding.
My favourite trees of India. I made Sanju stop on the highway and go back for this photo! I love it. Am going to miss these trees.
designs of the fort in Bikener...wish I could have had longer there.
My room tonight. I want to nick the bedspread.
Even has one of these but it doesn't work.
Water palace of Jaipur
Indians are masters of colour and design. This is over 700 years old in the Amber Fort.
Amber Fort







Well here I am back in the golden triangle; the Pink City of Rajasthan. I am staying in another palace tonight and I hope to upload some photos of my Maharaja Palace room. Last night I had a very hot curry and it was so delicious but I was up at 5am having pay back. Oh well, at least I feel fine now!

Long drive today, but I'm getting into Hindi music now and my book is great. Lots of camels on the road, they can carry so much and seem so placid. I want one. The roads here are fantastic but everyone drives like a complete nutter.

Megan, thank you for your comment. the rats were fine because they are not real rats but reincarnations (ask your Dad what that means!) as for the camel I was lucky coz he was quite small but my legs do ache today not only because of the camel, but also because of walking up sand dunes early in the morning to see the sunrise. Now that was tough because I kept sinking and slipping.

Arrived in Jaipur about 3pm and had a whistle stop tour because everything closes at 5.30. Tomorrow is the elephant festival. Looking forward to it. Still no accommodation in Delhi but Sanju says he will help me find something...hope so.

Warning Mum...next part not suitable for Megan or any other reading nephew/neice I might have! (or Dad, come to that!)
Sanju took me to a jewellery shop this evening and the guy was mad as a hat. He told me he'd read my palm to tell me which gem stone would suit me best. (It was blue saphire by the way)
he then told me about my life, I'm a home owner, got a brother and a sister and that I like foreign men (All things Sanju could have quite easily told him...yes, I'm so cynical.) But then he told me that I liked group sex. I said, what? He said yes, it's here on your palm..you love group sex. I said oh my god, no one has ever said that when reading my palm. (or at any other time!) He said it's here on your palm...all readers know it, they just haven't told you about it. Bloody hell. You learn so many new things about yourself when you travel around India!!!! I bought a cheap ring of him just to remember him and his 'knowledgable insights'.

Right time for dinner. Internet is good here and for the first time I have learnt how to turn my photos. I hope you enjoy looking at them without cricking your neck!

Bikener

Holy rats!!! can you believe I was there!! I'm so proud of myself!!! Look at the colony in the distance.
Holy rats drinking holy water
Holy sleeping rats
Fort at Bikener. My favourite fort so far!!

the Thar desert...about 30 miles from Pakistan.
Dishpak the guide and Bishken the camel.
At the watering hole.

ME!!!
Well, I'm back in a city now. What an adventurous few days. Drove from Jodhpur to Jaiselmer and went round the fort...which is still inhabited and looks amazing and then in a jeep out to the desert and ended up sleeping out under the stars in the desert after a four hour ride on a camel! Unfortunatly the sunset was hazy but sunrise was good. I didn't sleep alone had an old English couple with me so that was a bit of security! but a What an adventure. I had a small camel so it wasn't too uncomfortable at all! In fact I quite liked it!!!


Then today I did the most crazy thing in the WORLD FOR ME. I went to the only Rat Temple in India. there are 100000000s of them and I thought if anything could cure me of a phobia that would and to be honest it wasn't too bad. Just kinda strange and they were kinda cute..but GOD it was weird being around so many rats...but I didn't pass out or scream and just thought of them as what they are: holy reincarnations of the local Royal Family!!!

I'm hungry, tired and been chatting on Skype and just realised I don't have any accommodation sorted out for when I am back in Delhi...which could be a problem bcause it is Holi. Big festival. Whoops...oh well. Hopefully I'll sort something tomorrow. Night. Off for some well deserved FOOD

Jodphur

My bedroom tonight! It's massive and this is only a third of the size!
Hindu temple in Ranakpur
Inside the fort of Jodphur
On my mountain trip yesterday evening
the beautiful view. There are crocodiles on the nearest island but the are hard to see.
Outside the Jain temple in Ranakpur
carvings inside the temple
In a Hindu temple up another mountain...three hundred 90 steps up. This guy was really strange and way too fat for a priest!
Miniture Artists at work in a studio in Udaipur
me in the royal palce in Udaipur
The beautiful peacock of love.
Ceiling in the royal palace. Loved it!
Typical rajastani man. well actually he isn't...this is the curliest I have seen!

Bloody hell i am in Paradise. Never have I stayed in such a lovely room as i will be tonight. It's like a palace. Hopefully I will be able to upload some photos becauseIhave found a better internet cafe and I really want to write down what I have done.

Yesterday i was staying out in the countryside and I went for a walk up a mountain to watch the sunset. It was beautiful and reminded me of New Zealand. It was in a small place called Ranakpur and it had one of the most beautiful Jain temples I have ever seen. It was so exquisite and i was there for ages.

Today I have arrived in Jodhpur and went to yet another royal palace (which since 1973 has been a hotel) this was Ok but the fort was amazing. I had an audio guide and learnt all about the Rajput dynasty of Marwar...bloody loaded they were and always fighting someone...apart from the British!!

Then to another peaceful temple and finally into Jodphur. The hotel is stunning and I have just eaten on the terrace over looking the city and earlier I bought loads of spices, coz this city is famous for them. I have bought so much I don't know how I am going to carry it all home!! Oh well. It's all inthe boot of the car at the moment. I'm going for a typical Jodphur breakfast tomorrow of deep fried chillis...sounds interesting!! Now Sanju knows I love spicy food he keeps on wanting to test how spicy I can go. I think a deep fried chilli breakfast may be my limit!!
Right I'm off to my palace now and gonna sleep like a Princess!!! Night