Bombay

Three headed shiva. The destroyer, ugly face on left, calm face in the middle and female face on the right. Very dark but at last the woman puts the carving in perspective

The faces on these sculptures are still really beautiful despite the Portugese using them for target practice in the early 17th century.

Met and seen some interesting people today along with some amazing carved lumps of rock. Got up late and watched English IndianTV this morning. A kind of 2 hairy bikers cookery programme around India, but they don't cook they just go into restaurants and discuss the food and then this well weird fat old woman who looked really scary making cocktails and necking them and getting all kinda horny and excitable about them. It was revolting and I was intrigued by how gross it was. This was about 10am and in my opinion one of the most affective government health warnings I've ever seen.

Finally gave my trousers to this really great tailor, he told me I had been truely duped and there wasn't much hope for them. He even showed me how the stitching was already coming apart. Oh well, live and learn.

Then I got on the boat to Elephanta Island. Bombay harbour is a tad ugly, not exactly a stunning vista but Elephanta was amazing. It's an ancient retreat for worshippers of Shiva and in the 6th century they carved out these massive gods from just single pieces of rock. The cave was out of this world and the three headed shiva was MASSIVE! In my guide book it is written that this particular site is better than the 2nd most popular site in India. (I think this is their way of having a stab at the Taj Mahal.)

Well, stayed in the caves for ages looking at all the gods and trying to remember who was who. I love it that Ganesh, the god with the elephant head, rides around on a mouse. No luck with the photos today this computer is crap. Same problem as when I arrived.

Then I met this guy from Kyrgistan, think that's how you spell it. He was really strange and he kept telling me he wasn't a traveller but a world knowledge collector. (What? a bully bullshitter more like). Anyway, he'd come to India without a visa from Tibet, There was no border crossing where he crossed over. He'd left tibet coz of the political trouble and now is in deep shit here because he can't leave without a visa and can't stay in any hotels because they all want your visa number. He was going to Elephanta Island to see if he could stow away out of India on a boat to the middle East. if he's caught he'll go to jail. Bloody mad situation.

after I'd had my fill of rocks and the hindu gods I went for a Foster's in the bar and saw a group of toursits who reminded me of Italians, they were all laughing and being loud and were all amazingly well dressed. Got chatting to them and found out they were all Zoroastrians from Iran. I've finally met a group of people from the most amazing religion ever invented! We had a chat and they liked it that I knew a bit about their faith but unfortunately their ENglish wasn't too good. I was so excited I forgot to ask if I could take a photo of them.

Then on the 'deluxe' boat home I paid the extra 10 Rs to go on the top deck. Nobody was up there apart from this really awful Indian guy (A kinda Indian Maxwell look alike, the Newspaper geezer who died on his boat) and this really young attractive girl. He just kept putting her into poses and taking photos and she would do anything he wanted and he kept pawing her. I felt quite naseous and it wasn't because of sea sickness. But yet I stayed because I wanted to feel the sun on my face. Really horrible situation to witness though. Maybe he was 'helping' her get a portfolio together for Bollywood.

Tonight I went the full hog and ate at the best 5 star restaurant in Bombay. Walked there and the streets were just full of people and kids and cows and crap on the pavements and blatent poverty and as soon as you entered the Taj it was like another world. I met a class of Indians whoI just haven't met before. They just stay cacooned in their massive cars, houses and luxury hotels,live the high life and never have to witness the day to day living of the majority in the city. It was an education and the hotel was amazing..I spose I'm impressed because I haven't been into that many 5 star hotels.(Well, not since I lived in Thailand. ) Anyway the food was expensive and pretty good but I've eaten better stuff. Especially in that working man's cafe in Bangalore!!